heavy bodied pigmented glaze

randhall | Posted in Peter Gedrys on September 28, 2008 07:30am

Hello,
Working on a stick stand (oak) that came to me stripped. I sanded, used an NGR stain, sealed with Zinzer Universal Seal Coat dewaxed shellac (cut 60/40 with alcohol).
Next I used Star NU-GLAZE Heavy Bodied Pigmented Glaze, following can instructions. The first time I tried it I left it overnight, and the next day the glaze simply rubbed off before I tried sealing it. I tried again, this time leaving the glaze the recommended 30 minutes, then top coated it with the same above shellac sealer. The glaze was still somewhat wet at this time.
The next day the glaze finish rubs off. I am back to square one. Any ideas what I am doing wrong? The can of glaze is over 5 years old, but had not been used prior to this project, so perhaps its shelf life is up?
Thanks for any help you can send my way. Rand

Replies

peter28 | Sep 30, 2008 03:47am | #1
Rand,

When a piece has been stripped the very first thing I would do is give it a good solvent wash and dry to remove any residual wax in the stripper. Not doing this can lead to adhesion problems with a finish down the road.

You used an NGR dye followed by the very dilute shellac. Did you have a problem with the dye "pulling" when you shellacked? If you were able to get the first application of shellac to go on without problem I would suggest you added another application. SealCoat can be used very effectively right from the can. This will also give you a better surface to glaze on.

You said the glaze just wiped off prior to sealing. How did you apply it? Was it a thick coat brushed on? It sounds like it just didn't have enough time to set up and dry well. On most occasions using an oil based glaze overnight drying is usually fine. Was it quite humid at the time?

You also mentioned waiting 30 minutes and then sealing. I don't see how that will work as the oil based product simple doesn't set that quickly. I would have to see the directions on the can to see what it said pertaining to that. In my mind it's not right.

Was the can full when you opened it, or was it down a little and have a skin over the top? One thing that might help is to mix a few drops of japan drier into what you are going to use. This can help the oil absorb oxygen and dry quicker.

FWIW, when I use glazes, I use them lightly. That is I'll apply it to the surface and then brush it out, which is known as feathering it out. This evens out the color and reduces any brush strokes.

Get back to me with answers to the above.

Peter

randhall | Oct 01, 2008 02:24am | #2
Peter,
Thank you for your reply.
I sprayed (HVLP) the seal coat, so noticed no pulling of the dye. I will not thin the sealer next time, or put 2 coats on for a better seal. Perhaps it was too thin to do its job.I lightly sanded with a maroon pad, then put the glaze on with a brush. I followed the can instructions to the letter, let it set 3-5 minutes (I gave it 5) then wiped with a cloth.The can says to let it dry 30 minutes, but not more than 2 hours, or you have to give it at least 24 hours. I left it 2 days, then sprayed another seal coat (which wiped off, with the glaze color). I tried the whole process again, but this time tried the 30 minute wait, and the same result happened.Humidity is 56% currently, temp is 55-65 degrees daily.If I understand your first note, the glaze should have dried, and not come off on my hands as I moved the piece to the spray area. I'm thinking it is not worth the hassle to continue with this product (Star brand NU-GLAZE heavy bodied pigmented glaze), I should start anew with a newly purchased glaze, and would be happy to take recommendations. I also have a gallon can (unused, but again, at least 5 years old) of Behlen Master Heavy Bodied Glazing Stain (clear) and 5 Behlen Master Color (umbers and siennas) which I could try. I got these materials from a finisher that went out of business and left the area, and am just now getting the time to experiment/ learn how to use them. Again, I appreciate any recommendations you have.Thanks again, Rand

peter28 | Oct 02, 2008 04:31am | #3
Rand,

You certainly seem to have a good plan. I wonder if this glaze would react better to having a vinyl sealer than the shellac.

Some of the industrial products can be fussy. If you can try and contact a Star rep and see their take on it. Get past a salesman who will read doctrine to you. Get a rep who goes into shops and trouble shoots.

What does your nose tell you the solvent is? I know it's an oil, but which type? Possibly MEK or the like. It would be pretty offensive to smell.

If you've tried it twice I really think you have to go to a different sealer.

On the Master Colors, read the back, it will make you chuckle. It says don't use with shellac, varnish and one other as I recall. And that's a "master color" I've never used it.

If you have a Sherwin Williams store near you , an industrial one not the paint store, check into their product line. You can ask at the paint store where the nearest one is. Another brand you may check into is Valspar. They have an industrial line also.

You may find some products here that are better suited to what you are doing.

To be continued.

Peter