Replies

1. 
   teabags | Jan 14, 2008 01:15am | #1

   Hello.  Are you going to have glass or solid panels? If solid panels you could use 3/8" ply veneered, the full size,(of the door) less any edge lippings. Then pin 1/2" ply with moulding applied to inner edge around and across centre and mullion if required, on both faces of the door.then lip outer edges ,and apply the finishing veneer over the face . Using three layers would I think make a more stable door. Are you looking for a non standard door or a non standard timber? all the best .

                  regards Teabag.

1. 
   bszydlo | Jan 14, 2008 02:26am | #2

   Thanks for your reply. I am going to use solid panels in the doors (1/2" veneer plywood). For the rails and stiles I was originally going to use a 1 1/8" particle board core edged with 3/4 cherry to bring the total width to 4 1/2". On top of this I was going to use 1/8" resawn cherry to bring the thickness to 1 3/8".
   The thought of resawing cherry to make about 20 doors seems a more than a little daunting and I got a good deal on Cherry veneer. So instead of using 1/8" thick resawn cherry for the surface I have decided to go with the veneer. This brings the door thickness down to close to 1 1/4" and I am not sure if this is sufficient or if I should laminate the core to gain thickness?
   Thanks again for writing,
   Bill

1. 
   jackplane | Jan 14, 2008 05:24am | #3

   well first off, why use particle board? these doors will be quite heavy and may require more hinges...

   i'd use 2 pcs 1/2 and 1 pc 3/8 of mdf or lightweight mdf, veneered with cherry.

   for commercial purposes this is 1 3/8 plus veneer. if it's for you alone, i wouldn't bother about exact thicknesses.Expert since 10 am.

1. 
   bszydlo | Jan 14, 2008 06:22am | #4

   The reason I was going to use particle board was weight. I thought mdf was heavier. My original idea was to laminate 2 pieces of 3/4 mdf to end up with a 1 1/2" thickness. I experimented with this on a utility door and it definitely was heavy. I guess I didn't want to go through the process of laminating all those layers if I could find a commercial product of the appropriate thickness.
   Thanks,
   Bill

2. 
   brad805 | Jan 14, 2008 07:43pm | #5

   I would stick to 1 3/8", as I have not seen much hardware for other thicknesses.   You can find hinges, but I am not certain you will find any knobs that will work.   

   This rail/stile makeup is referred to as Stave Core.  If you search for that term on the web you will find some information.  MDF is one option, quarter sawn pine is another and I have read some use engineered lumber also for the cores.  I deal with glulam supplier and they sold me some glulam test stock.  Cost effective, and it works great.  The MDF does lead to one extra glueup.  If you have a vacuum bag, this is a snap, but if you are using the clamp method as I did, it is a nuisanceand very prone to potential glueup problems.  There are some manufacturers that produce stave core material in various thicknesses, but I found them kinda pricey considering I did not have to add a cost to the door for my own time. 

   Good luck

   Brad

1. 
   bszydlo | Jan 14, 2008 11:37pm | #6

   Brad, thanks for your input. I do have a vacuum bag for the laminating. Rather than go thinner than 1 3/8 do you think there would be a problem going a little thicker? I am considering veneering 2 thickness of 3/4 melamine which would give me a final thickness of a little over 1 1/2".

1. 
   brad805 | Jan 15, 2008 12:08am | #7

   Next step is usually 1 3/4".  Anything can be made, just make sure to track down the hardware you want and make sure all fits according to plan.  I would guess 1 3/4" door knobs would work on a 1.5" door, but I am no expert on door knobs, so please dont take my word.  I would check to make sure your hinges are going to work too.  Usually I stick to standards to avoid hick-ups down the road.  I would probably plane it down to the req'd thickness.  I used slightly thicker skins on mine 1/8" to 3/16" re-sawn cherry.  Some advised against, but I have found some production shops that produce exactly that.  I assume you are making your own frame, so you can rebate what ever to need for the door, but if you are planning to find pre-made framing material you will need to check that out too.

   Brad