I will soon be starting a kitchen cabinet project. The cabinets will be frameless 3/4″ ply boxes (Euro) with full overlay doors and drawers. I plan to manufacture my own 1/4″ thick hardwood edge banding for the visible edges of the plywood boxes.
My question is this: assuming I choose to purchase 1x S4S lumber for the edge banding stock, is there a preference, either asthetically or structurally, that dictates how I cut the edge banding strips from the board?
Option 1 being joint one edge, then rip a 1/4″ strip and repeat the jointing/ripping operation. Or, option 2 being thickness plane the board to 1/4″ thick and rip 3/4 wide strips.
In short, should the edge grain, or the face grain of the original board be the visible and glued surface of the edge banding?
Thanks!
Replies
Typically, strips are ripped off a board. There aren't any structural issues but in some cases there could be an asthetic issue, probably more so with figured grain. Since you won't see the edges unless the doors are open, it would be an unusual issue. One of the things you need to be aware of with Euro style and full overlay are the hinges. When hinge edges are abutted to two doors, back to back, one door may be restricted in opening by hitting on the other door. In Euro style construction, doors may only open 110 degrees. Do some research on the brand of hinges you want to use. I'd suggest doing a mock up before you drill for the cups on your doors. Width of drawer fronts will have to correspond to door width on base units with a drawer and door. Don't make assumptions without knowing how it may impact your desired construction and design.
http://www.hardwaresource.com/images/products/701122_Reveal_Table_Twin_Overlay_12182010.jpg
Mike has the right of it - that advice comes of hard experience. I go ahead and buy the more expensive 170 degree hinges as I don't like having the door stop short when the cabinet is opened.
Re doing a mockup, while it can seem like a real pita and a waste of time, I strongly recommend doing that as well. I can attest to the fact that it will save you a load of grief in the long term.
If you intend on gluing a 1/4" strip to the shelf your task will be made much easier if you make up a set of 3" wide cauls to clamp them on with - this saves a bunch of clamps.
I've been using a full inch strip lately and I like the look better than the 1/4" strip. Plus the wider strip is easier to clamp as it doesn't slide all over the map on the slick glue surfaces, but you still need the cauls.
Finally, if this is your first set of kitchen cabinets, you should plan on the job taking at least three times longer than your most pessimistic estimate - kitchen cabinets are easy the SECOND time! You will be amazed at all the things that you didn't think of, the misfits, the downright Amazing! mistakes (but I DID TOO measure it twice), and the fact that life makes other demands on your time as well.
Finally, it would be worth your time to go read a couple of articles on the use of story sticks - most of the articles are a little hard to follow, but once you try it and get the hang of it, story sticks greatly reduce the number of fitting mistakes.
Oh, one final thing - as an engineer, I like to measure to the 1/32" of an inch. If you are like inclined, GET OVER IT! DOOM awaits you. Plan everything with a 1/4" clearance between cabinets and a full inch on each end. Walls are not flat and do not come together at 90 degrees in any house. You will NEED the wiggle room.
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