Replies

1. 
   Sphere | Feb 17, 2004 03:49am | #1

   yup..there are 'canoe' router bits. a hollow and round set. using these you can make water tite joints very easily, and the radius or finish diameter does not have to be a 'dead on' mathmatical process. Redwood staves are what ya want, and steel hoops.

   the bottom is the challenge. A cooper would have a croze (sp?) a circular router plane for grooving the barrel for the head. In your case a piloted 3 wing slot cutter ought to suffice, maybe needing 2 passes..I would make the groove no less than 1/2" by 1/3 rd the thickness of the staves..the bottom needs to float (no pun) like a raised panel..being as it must swell to attain watertiteness.

   As a rule, build it loose..it has to swell and not explode.

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1. 
   cft353 | Feb 17, 2004 04:06am | #2

   If I understand you, Sphere, the "canoe" router bits would yield a joint similar to a tongue-and-groove?

   I had actually thought to build the tub with coopering techniques but clad the interior with fibreglass (old boatbuilder here). That way I get the aesthetics of the wooden tub but the watertightness of the 'glass. I don't really give a rodent's rear what it looks like inside as long as it holds the water...

1. 
   bobJackson | Feb 17, 2004 06:57am | #3

   The canoe bits cut a Bullnose (male ) and a mating half circle(female) The angle isnt crucial because the joint can rotate a little, like a ball and socket.