Replies

1. 
   JohnWW | Jan 18, 2009 04:24pm | #1

   The safest approach to keep the patina is to use steel wool to remove the rust, it is less abrasive than Scotchbrite, sandpaper, or a wire brush. If there is a lot of rust, start out with a coarser wool, used dry, then use a fine wool with a bit of oil to finish.

   The painted and lacquered wood surfaces should be cleaned with a water based household cleaner, like Simple Green, first followed by alcohol, and then paint thinner, that combination will remove anything that can be wiped off. Using a car or plastic polish will sometimes restore the shine to glossy surfaces without making the plane look like new.

   The chemical rust dissolvers will remove the rust down to bare metal and the patina can be restored somewhat by then rubbing with oil or wax, but the chemicals can damage the paint and the wood in the handles, so you need to be careful or disassemble the plane to be safe. There are electrical rust removal methods that work well but they would require a complete disassembly of the plane so that it can be submerged in a a water bath.

   If screws are frozen, apply a penetrating oil and let them sit for a week trying them gently once in awhile and applying more oil. Sitting a screwdriver in the screws and striking the end of the handle with a small hammer, as though the screwdriver was a chisel, will help to loosen them up.

   I can do a little research and let you know if any of the planes have a significant resale value but I can't do that until after the weekend. The common hand planes are rarely worth much, some of the specialty planes can be worth hundreds of dollars and they are best sold as is.

   You didn't say but are all of the planes Stanleys?

   John White

1. 
   Acer_sp | Jan 18, 2009 09:46pm | #2

   Most of the planes are Stanley except a few small unmarked ones(three of them). One I do believe is called a violin plane (very Small) one is called a Bailey #4 and the other three as mentioned above look like small block planes with no indication of maker. He also made a few of his own planes that I'll never part with and are going onto shelves throughout our families homes. I can attach pictures if you like of any and all. I am really concerned for the rabbetting plane (Stanley #78) its in Bad shape, heavy oxidation, deep pitting.

   I have most of the planes apart and semi cleaned with steel wool, you mention a chemical rust dissolver. Which would be what? As well as an at home wood worker I am a Millwright by Trade and I've seen stuff that strips rust, converts rust, and the underlieing metal is left black! I have been using paste wax or true bees wax on my tools after cleaning them,  whats your take on this approach?

   Thanks

   C.Adams

2. 
   Acer_sp | Feb 03, 2009 03:04am | #3

   Hello  Just following up on my last post to you. I know your busy but was wondering if you had any other thoughts as to the hand planes

   C.Adams

1. 
   JohnWW | Feb 04, 2009 04:57am | #4

   Sorry I dropped this one, I was traveling when I first answered your questions, and didn't pick it up again when I got back home. I looked up the planes, they are all fairly common but would make good users. There are several new rust removers on the market, that are less noxious to deal with than the old brands like Naval Jelly. I don't know what condition they leave the metal in, but I always managed to do well enough with steel wool for general cleaning and emery cloth and a wire brush on a grinder for the heavily corroded surfaces. Also, the cleaning up process with elbow grease always seemed more fun than just dumping the parts in a chemical bath.John W.

1. 
   Acer_sp | Feb 06, 2009 07:01am | #5

   No problem ,  I know what it is like to travel. Like you said good old elbow grease is the biggest part. Looks like I'm going to have to mill two of the planes back to true and square. They hollowed out quite a bit after removal of all the rust. A few thousands here and there and they should be as good as could be. Thanks for the input.

   C. adams