My two hand planes are over 50 years old and I think its time to upgrade. My problem is understanding all the different names and functions of handplanes, (jack, scrub, smoothing, etc), Can anyone recommend a good basic primer on handplanes? I once saw a book mentioned as a really good starter but can’t for the life of me remember the title or author.
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Replies
Try "Handplanes" by Garret Hack.
Don't "upgrade" your old planes! They are probably mechanically exactly the same as a new plane. Are they Stanleys?
"Are they Stanleys?"
No, they are ancient Craftsman.
Your first three planes need to be a scrubber, jointer, and smoother (#3, 4, or 4 1/2). If you can only buy two, then buy the scrubber and jointer (#7). If you can only buy one, then buy a jointer.
Lie-Nielsen is the current state of the art. Lee Valley is reasonably close, but for my money I'd stick with L-N. You will not be disappointed.
Thanks for the advice. That is the kind of thing I was thinking about. What do the #s represent?
Generally speaking, bigger numbers mean bigger (longer) planes. Even before getting a book, if you just wander over to http://www.lie-nielsen.com/ you can find a lot of basic information, including their recommended 'starter set' of planes (low angle block, low angle jack and dedicated smoother).What planes you buy will depend on what you want to do with them. Do you want to try your hand at turning rough lumber into project-ready boards? Do you want to use them for trimming joints to fit? Do you want to take stock that's been through your jointer and/or planer and give them a final smoothing with a hand plane?Hack's book (mentioned above) is a great book both for the information contained and excellent writing. However, ultimately, you'll have to decide what it is you would like to do with hand planes and make your selections from there. Personally, I would start with planes to trim joints and get a low angle block plane first.Matt
"What planes you buy will depend on what you want to do with them."
Right now I would say my primary use of the handplane would be surfacing glued-up panels. I must ask, however, would you really need to handplane a board that has been run through a surface planer?
Thanks for the link also.
I must ask, however, would you really need to handplane a board that has been run through a surface planer?
jack
best way to answer this is to set you a wee exercise; take a piece of stock that you've machined, wipe a bit of wax over it, then inspect it closely; angle it towards the light and look down the grain, twisting the stock till the light "catches" the light...
what I'm getting at is that in the wrong light, all the planer marks will light up as a series of valleys along the length of the board, each square to the grain... looks 'orrible... don't ask me how I know this....Mike Wallace
Stay safe....Have fun
I get your point.
Also, there is no size limit with a hand plane, no noise to ruin your hearing, less fine particulate to threaten your lungs, they're easier to clean up after, use less space, they don't need constant blade replacements, use no electricity and give your body exercise. And, barring utter stupidity--never and impossibility in MY shop--they won't accidentally remove a needed body part.There are down sides though. You have to have pretty fancy, expensive and messy sharpening equipment--which means that a source of water in your shop is an enormous help--and they're more expensive than it seems like they'd be (at least for good ones); they are slower, for the most part, they don't automatically make parallel lines like ripping on a TS or planing with a planer, and so on. I use both machines and hand tools, but far prefer the hand tools.CharlieI tell you, we are here to fart around, and don't let anybody tell you different. --K Vonnegut
I think that is my motivation also. Even when a power tool might do the job, there is something uniquely rewarding and satisfying about the use of hand tools, especially if you are not working on a short schedule or production run.
Still trying to understand the various names of the handplanes. Sometimes I think learning to use the plane is a lot easier than learning the names of the planes. What I have concluded so far is the following:
There are two basic categories of handplanes: Bench planes and Block planes. Bench planes are characterized by having the blade bedded at 45 deg with a 25 deg bevel facing down. Block planes are made with the blade bedded at 12 deg and a 25 deg bevel facing up. Within each basic category of plane, there can be Smoother, Jack or Jointer versions. The only difference I can find between these sub catogories is the length of the sole (indicated by a higher Stanley #). As far as I can tell all the adjusting and aligning mechanisms are otherwise the same.
So what is the difference in the planing action of the high angle, bevel down bench plane and the low angle, bevel up Block plane?
Jackhall,
I like to think about planes slightly differently: bench planes, speciality planes (block, shoulder, etc.) and moulding planes (to shape the wood). With regard to bench planes, this is a large catagory that makes the job of flattening wood and creating a smooth finish easier by modifing the length of the plane base/width, opening of the mouth of the plane(ie.moving the frog)and modifing the chip breaker relative to the blade. I have no idea how the 45 degree angle was determined except by trial and error...but the more you get toward being perpendicular to the wood the more your scraping and not slicing the wood (which is less efficient). Likewise, the bevel up 25 degree block was designed (I believe) for end grain where the more aggressive angle cannot really dig into end grain.
With all the new low angle LN's that are comming out I'm not sure what to think of those...
Edited 4/6/2005 7:47 pm ET by BG
Higher angles tend to work better with harder woods, and the more figure, the higher the preferred angle. Now, that being said, for reasons that elude me, sometimes these rules don't apply; so, I find it best to have a variety of angles available. The L-N rep taught me that a low-angle plane can easily be adjusted by changing the microbevel, the tiny bevel at the final edge of the blade. This is because the blade is mounted bevel up. It works great, one plane, any angle you want; but, you gotta have good sharpening skills (not that hard to come by.) Now, re: plane types, don't forget shoulder planes. What a wonderful tool! Scraping planes, too.CharlieI tell you, we are here to fart around, and don't let anybody tell you different. --K Vonnegut
Traditional bench planes have a bed angle of 45 degrees. Because the bevel is down, the plane has an effective cutting angle of 45 degrees.Block planes have lower bed angles with bevel up blades. You can still get the same 45 degree effective cutting angle with the appropriate blade bevel (for example, 12 degree bed angle plus 33 degree bevel angle makes effective 45 degree cutting angle).Low angle planes were (I think) traditionally used for end grain work. More, recently, they seem to be gaining in popularity on bench planes for face grain work.As I see it, the principal trade-off is that planes with lower effective cutting angles are easier to push through wood (and probably stay sharper longer) but have an increased chance of tear out on problem wood (highly figured, etc).For woods that don't cooperate with a standard 45 degree smoother, you can get a 'york pitch' 50 degree bed angle (you can also find in-fill and wooden planes with even higher angles).One nice thing about bevel up planes is that you can change your effective cutting angle by changing the bevel angle on the blade.If you wanted to make your work as easy as possible, you'd probably want to use the lowest effective cutting angle possible without an unacceptable level of tear out. Apparently, years and years of planing has shown generally the best compromise is 45 degrees.Matt
They can't be that old if they are Craftsman. Heck some of the oldtimers here probably remember when Sears started selling planes. :)
Seriously, you can probably make these work just fine if you like. If you want to buy new planes though, by all means, have fun! I'd strongly reccomend a bunch of research first though. It's easy to buy the wrong thing or expect the wrong result and get fed up. There is a lot of experience on Knots to help answer your questions, just ask!
Steve
They definitely can be Craftsman and at least close to 50 years old. As long as I can remember(and I'm closing in on 50), my dad had a block plane and a #4. I have the block plane now but the #4 went in the estate sale before I got a chance to grab it. It works fine, although I'll finish tuning it up soon. Since they're as old as they are, I wouldn't be surprised if they were made by Stanley. I may even have the box, so I'll look.
"I cut this piece four times and it's still too short."
I bet they are made by one of the big plane makers. Stanley, Sargent, Union or the likes. Probably a good plane. I don't have one I guess, so I can't go look at it to determine the maker, but I'm curious if you determine the maker.
Steve
The old Craftsman planes may have been made by Stanley.
Tom
Some of the Craftsman planes were made by Sargent. I've got one of the ones that was a clone of the Stanley No. 78.Leon Jester
Anybody have an idea what a Record #10½ bench rebate plane is worth? -- or a Record 2506S Side rabbet plane?
IanDG
Ian,
I bet the 10 1/2 would bring about $150-200 on ebay, and the side rabbet $100 or so. Just a guess but that is what I've seen similar sell for, assuming good condition.
Steve
Thank you -- I'm trying to get valuations for insurance and I couldn't find one for either of those.
What about a Record #8 jointer?
IanDG
Ian,
My best estimate for a #8 Record is in the $75 to $100 range. Record's resale mimicks Stanley values pretty closely. For insurance, make sure you use a value you could replace it for. Have a good day,
Steve
Thanks again Steve.
IanDG
The Handplane Book, by Garrett Hack is great. He also talks about them at length in Classic Handtools if you want an all around book on Handtools.
Regards,
Ken
"Do as you would be done by." C.S. Lewis
Jackhall,
The best books on hand planes are the ones your library stocks. If your lucky that will include "Plane Basics by Sam Allen".
OK, thanks. I'll take a look in the local library.
If you want to learn "all" you ever need to know about Stanley Hand planes look up Patric Leach on Google and read his "The Superior Work: Patrick's Blood and Gore...."
This is a very long description of every Stanley plane.
Also, go to the Lie-Nielsen website....Lots of great information on "today's" planes. Ditto for the Lee Valley website on info aboout the current Veritas planes.
Dick Cummings
Ok Dick. I'm getting loaded down with web sites to visit but I'm glad to have all these references to explore.
There are litteraly dozens of sites about handplanes! Have a ball.
Dick
Here is a good link that will help.
http://www.cianperez.com/Wood/WoodDocs/Wood_How_To/INDEX_How_To.htm
Thanks. I checked out the link and wound up printing out a lot of info.
No problem. Someone here posted it in response to a similar question I posted. I have it bookmarked. It has a wealth of information and links to other information.
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