I’m considering upgrading from my current 14″ generic saw, to one of these Grizzly saws or perhaps it’s Shop Fox cousin. My current saw works OK but does not “cut like butter” as others describe their bigger saws. I’m starting to get envious.
I’m interested in feedback from anyone who’s upgraded from 14″ to 17 or 18″. Do they really cut that much better(assuming comparable blades)? Does the dust collection really work that much better?
A little background; my current saw already has a riser block and upgraded 1.5hp motor. I am not considering a European saw.
Thanks in advance.
Replies
David,
I have the G0513. My previous saw was a PM 14". The Grizzly is a heck of a nice machine and I am quite pleased with it. The dust collection is fine. 90% of the time I run a 1/2" 3 tpi blade from Highland Hardware. I have recently resawn various widths of oak and poplar for drawer sides and panel glue ups. Cuts like a charm. This is my first major Grizzly tool and I feel that it is a lot of value for the bucks.
-Jerry
Hi Nazard
Thanks for responding. Since I've never used a bigger saw, I'm curious about the differences you notice between them (aside from the bigger capacity). David B
David,
Aside from size and power, there is nothing that really stands out as "different". Think of the difference between my Ford Ranger truck and my next door neighbor's big Dodge. They both do basically the same thing. The Dodge can do more heavy lifting....
It will be revealed unto you the first time you slide a 12" wide 5/4 board down it's throat and end up with two nearly identical slabs of wood.
If you get the 513, don't try to use the stock blade for any serious cutting: it is for setting up the saw only. And please remember to have lots of fun!!
Best!
-Jerry
Thanks Jerry, that helps put it in perspective.
BTW, are you happy with the stock guides on your Griz? I see that the "2X" version of that saw has roller guides as well as some other changes. David B
I'm happy with the guides - however I did not like how the blade shroud made access to them difficult, so I did a bit of trimming. I also added wingnuts to the M6 socket caps. The other thing I did not like about the saw was the ridiculous placement of the tension handle on the fence. With a piece of stock on the table, you would have to reach under the stock to adjust the fence. I modified the fence so the handle placement was at the left side of the fence. Those were the only negatives about the saw, and considering how easy they were to correct, no big deal.
Rich and Bones have both posted here about their 513's. Over on Sawmill Creek there have been quite a few people posting. No major gripes from anybody so far.
I have attached pics of the blade shroud and fence modifications. (The pics are HUGE and do not want to resize, so open them in a new window. Sorry....)
Anyway, a very nice saw!
Thanks for the photos Jerry. I'll file those away for future (hopefully near future)use. I've read elsewhere that the handle placement is curious on these. The X2 version has a cast iron fence but still seems to have the handle on the right. I was actually thinking of recycling my old Kreg fence if I don't like the stock one. I like your solution though. Thanks again for the advice.David B
David,We have the earlier version but it's really the same saw with stamped steel trunnions, which are okay. The ball bearings in the guides are shielded and not sealed. We use the machine pretty heavily and I found myself replacing bearings. The second time in a pretty brief period I was going to get sealed bearings and compared the price of sealed bearings with the ceramic guides Grizzly sells. I put the ceramic guides in rather than try sealed bearings so I'm not sure what would actually be better. We haven't had any problems since that change.
Thanks! It's nice to know that the saw holds up under hard use. I can only dream of that much shop time right now, but some day....Good to know about the shielded bearings. I wonder if they're still using them.David B
I believe the bearings are sealed in my machine. The guide assembly is completely different than the picture here. I'll post a picture, but won't be able to do it until about 8 o'clock tonight.I was prepared to dislike the handle placement on the fence. Somehow, I've had no problem with it.Rich
I bought my G0513 back in 04, and she's still going strong. They later came out with the x2 with some upbrades, but to be honest mines been fine. I chucked the stock blade replaced with timberwolve and never looked back. Dust collection is fine and I'd buy it again. Hope that helps. Here is my original post
http://forums.taunton.com/tp-knots/messages?msg=17846.9
If it moves, tax it. If it keeps moving, regulate it.
And if it stops moving, subsidize it.
That's very informative and helpful Bones. Great photos too. It's nice to be able to see closeups of the inner workings. I'm glad to hear your're still happy with yours. That counts for a lot.David B
David,
I have recently gotten this saw (G0513X2) set up. I previously had a Grizzly 14" that did everything I could ask of a 14".
But the 14 was absolutely bare basement. Moving up to this 17" is like having a luxury machine. It doesn't have all the cast iron, the magnetic power switch and the foot brake of the Hammer model I was considering, but it is a very solid piece of equipment and didn't cost $2600 either. The fit and finish are very high. All the controls and settings are very positive. The robust blade roller guides stay accurate to the blade all the way up and down with the rack and pinion adjuster.
I put on 3 tpi skip tooth blade from BC Saw, Vancouver, spent a minute or two squaring the table to the blade and the fence to the table. I tensioned the blade until it ran smoothly just above the flutter tension and eyeballed it while setting the tracking control to get the blade riding on the tire's crown.
Minutes later I was sawing 1 mm thick veneer from 8" koa and padauk boards. No sweat. No drift. Perfectly uniform sheets.
The cut surface was just a little more rough than I thought it should be. So I slowly adjusted the tension a little higher. The blade started to vibrate, then settled down again as I found the tension it liked, running smoother than at first. This time the cut was as smooth as I think a band saw can cut.
The dust collection works as it should. The lower cabinet has brushes that sweep both the wheel and the blade.
This is a fine saw.
Rich
Edited 3/2/2009 9:04 pm ET by Rich14
Thanks Rich. I'm really leaning toward a saw like yours. It seems to be an incredible saw for the $, especially since Griz is throwing in shipping right now.
My current saw is pretty bare bones as well. It will resaw OK if pressed, but it takes forever and makes a mess. I keep thinking that there must be a better way...
BTW, I like "luxury machine" image. Now I want one even worse.David B
Quang,
Listen man,
I really don't think I can help you. Your obsessive pursuit of every detail of every machine in existence is bordering on pathologic.
I've given you my opinions already. Sorry. You've been all over the map with your questions and changing criteria. Cyclic noise? What the heck are you talking about? Never mind, don't answer that.
The next thing you'll obsess about is the shape of the power buttons and how far they travel when pushed.
Half a dozen people have encouraged you to buy half a dozen different machines. They're all correct.
As I said before, decide how much you have to spend, throw a dart at that price at any of the brands that have been mentioned, and get on with it. They're all good machines. Start making sawdust.
Rich
I just saw that Grizzly has a new model - the GO513X2B for $1195. http://www.grizzly.com/products/17-2-HP-Extreme-Series-Bandsaw-w-Cast-Iron-Trunnion-Brake/G0513X2BI believe the big change is the addition of a blade brake, which the copy states will stop the blade within three seconds.Chris @ http://www.flairwoodwork.spaces.live.com(soon to be http://www.flairwoodworks.com)
- Success is not the key to happines. Happiness is the key to success. If you love what you are doing, you will be successful. - Albert Schweitzer
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