I need to glue up panels in basically an unheated shop, Does anyone know of a glue which works on hardwood (cherry) which will work in the 40-45 degree F range?
Art
I need to glue up panels in basically an unheated shop, Does anyone know of a glue which works on hardwood (cherry) which will work in the 40-45 degree F range?
Art
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Replies
Not sure about the glue, but I'll wrap my work in an old electric blanket until the glue sets. Seems to do the job.
I have used poly urethane (gorilla glue)in that temp w/no problems, the
cure time is slower. the temp range is on the bottle, it doesn't freeze
but spreads like molasses.
wrightwood,
Then I take it you haven't seen Fine Wood Workings test of glues where they showed that Gorilla glue was only 58% as strong as Titebond 111?
There are plenty of ways of raising the temp in a shop long enough to effect a good glue joint.
HI c1802362
I use a old crockpot as a double boiler for my glue,set the tempeture on low and set the glue bottle in the warm water, this works great for hide glues,not sure about pva glue.
take care
C1802362
Unheated shop? Is there any way to heat an area in the shop? Won't take much.. do you have electricity? An electric heater aimed at the panels would raise the temp sufficent for glue to work in 2 hours.. Or a propane heater? The whole shop doesn't need to be raised 10 to 15 degrees just the area around the panels..
A couple of lights might do it!
I use one of those Halogen work lights when I need to keep a glueup - or some stain/finish - warm. Those rascals kick out some serious heat!
I think Titebond wants 55-60° depending on TBII, TBII Extend, etc. The fast cure West epoxy is good down to 40° but you only get around 10-15 minutes of open time with the faster hardener. Any way to move the glue-up indoors? That's my normal fix.
If you build it he will come.
Titebond III is good down to 47 degrees. A heat lamp in your work area might be enough.
http://www.titebond.com/WNTitebondIIITB.asp
Life is what happens to you when you're making other plans .
Funny that you should start this thread. Last night I was veneering some doors, using epoxy. I was thinking about starting a discussion about how to use the coolness to your advantage. I was able to roll out more glue and take my time before having to get the vacuum drawn.
My shop was only down to 62º last night, and it took 2.5 hrs from start to finish of gluing time before I had the vacuum drawn on the second bag. After that I warmed the shop up some more before I went on to bed. But the epoxy from the first mix was still in the early gel state. Unlike most other glue, if it is still fluid enough to squirm, it doesn't ruin the joint if it gets moved around a little, so long as the parts are still in contact for the final cure.
Sometimes when it is really cold, I construct a crude tent using sawhorses, and other lumber to support a tarp. I then put a small electric space heater inside and turn it on to warm the air in that small space.
You don't have to use epoxy to use the heated tent though.
I was wondering if there are any others who normally join in the discussion here who use epoxy regularly, especially for veneering? This is another of those subjects that I submitted to FWW a long time ago, that they didn't accept my offer to do.
Sorry C, if I am hijacking your discussion.
Why do you keep it so warm in your shop I just went out to shop and had 2degrees here in wisconsin, I think I will stay in house awhile till after lunch
Thanks for the replies - I think the electric blanket idea is going to work best as a) the shop is in a barn (lots of space to heat) and the glueups will be donel on a vertical panel glue up jig I built.
I keep thinking of upgrading the shop to put either a modene heater in (requires propane tank and plumbing) or an infrared heater, but I don't know if it could ignite sawdust
By the way, its about 26 F out here in Connecticut
Art
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