Replies

1. 
   badoyn | Feb 04, 2003 02:31am | #1

   I would guess that Titebond II would suffice.

   Michael

2. 
   johnhardy | Feb 04, 2003 03:23am | #2

   I've seen lots of butcher blocks delaminate over time ... many washings, etc. I'd suggest epoxy which should be totally waterproof.

   I've also seen butcher block countertops that were "unfinished" on the bottom, and which warped significantly due to water being absorbed on the top. That's a different issue but one you should consider.

   John

3. 
   lectrician | Feb 04, 2003 01:17pm | #3

   I've used Gorilla glue in the past with good results and the have had no problems. The manufacturer says the glue is non-toxic when dry. I use Boos Bros cutting board oil or tried and true Danish oil as a sealer. They both do a fine job.

4. 
   Splintie | Feb 05, 2003 03:09am | #4

   Poly glue is my favorite for countertops and cutting boards these days. Epoxy is good, but so expensive. You've got a bit more open time with the poly than with Titebond and you won't get glue creep, but be sure to leave it clamped for at least 24 hours, regardless of what it says on the bottle about taking them off.

   And food-safe finish will work, but on the other handbut it doesn't really need one at all; wood is dead, so the finish is just for looks. You might want to steer clear of nut oils, as some folks are deathly allergic to them, no exaggeration.

   Buckling of the countertop can be averted by making sure it has ventilation to both sides. As long as it can dry equally, it won't warp or buckle. When i make countertops for people for their cabinetmakers to install, i tell them they need to go over an open space, or else on spacers or Cedar Breather so the board can breathe on both sides.

1. 
   brucepirger | Feb 05, 2003 09:21am | #5

   So what would you recommend for a good food safe finish? I do not plan to actually cut directlty on the surface, but I also don't want to worry about eating what we may set/drop on the top. I'd like a stronger finish like a polyurethane...but don't know of any that are food safe. Would like something more "durable" than an oil. Best I could fine was Behlens salad bowl finish....

   Other comments would be MOST appreciated...need to finish my top soon!

1. 
   plinthe | Feb 05, 2003 05:02pm | #6

   On the homestead site, Jeff Jewitt says that shellac is totally safe, approved by the FDA. It isn't nearly as strong as poly, but dewaxed shellac is more resistant than oil. It is easy to repair, but it also has some disadvantages, like sensitivity to heat and alkaline compounds found in some household cleaners. Check it out if you think it might be an option:

   http://www.homesteadfinishing.com/

   Good luck.

   Plinthe

2. 
   Splintie | Feb 05, 2003 11:43pm | #9

   Any hardened top coat is safe for food, but that doesn't mean it will stand up to hot pans and dropped casserole dishes. (Save your money on the Behlens hype about "food-safe".) 

   Your options are to finish and treat it like a piece of furniture by top-coating and coddling it, or finish and treat it like a work surface--even the oil in that case is just for looks, as it doesn't do anything silly like "feed" the wood. Shellac anywhere around water (or that bottle of wine) is a non-starter. If you want durable finishes, look for descriptions like "bar-top", "spar/marine varnish", gym floor finish", etc. They will still mark up and not be heat resistant, but they are quite durable as far as protecting the wood underneath.   

   If you oil it, it also isn't necessary to treat the underside of the countertop. Bec it's not a film finish, oil will affect moisture absorption only negligibly. As i said, your best insurance of all against movement is ventilation to both sides.

5. 
   bill_1010 | Feb 05, 2003 06:51pm | #7

   delamination is the cause of expansion and contraction amongst the differences in the individual pieces of wood.  Any of the glues would end up failing due to the enormous pressure that happens. However personally id use poly for the project for the open time and relatively cheaper prices.  Even during glue up if the boards vary in moisture content the chance for delamination increases slightly.

   Finishes once cured are food safe.  Shellac isnt a durable finish for a counter top IMO.  I think youd be better off using Pure Mineral Oil and a finish coat of beeswax or parafin that can be re applied periodically. Finish both sides of the table/counter top.

1. 
   plinthe | Feb 05, 2003 07:38pm | #8

   Bill,

   Sounds like good advice. I have very limited experience with countertops. Does the oil and wax finish not have a tendency to stain? I will be embarking upon a similar project in a few months.

   Thanks for the advice.

   Plinthe

6. 
   CanadianCraftsman | Feb 14, 2003 05:41pm | #10

   I had the best luck with Titebond II.  It is a crosslinking PVA that is rated for exterior use. 

   I tried a Polyurethane Glue but I found the glue joints started to disintegrate.

7. 
   Wil | Feb 15, 2003 01:03am | #11

   I've made a number of cutting boards from elm (clear 1.5"thickx1.5"-2"wide staves).  Some in daily use 5-10 years, up to 24"x24".   Glue: Titebond II, Finish: mineral oil (all sides).  Seems to work; no complaints.

   Wil