I’m making a lacquered jewelry case with small drawers. Due to the small size, delicate shape, and unusual end-grain from which the pulls are made – neither mechanical fasteners nor dowels are an option to fasten the pulls to the drawer faces. Also because of the shape (and my limited skill using spray lacquer), I felt I couldn’t glue the pulls on prior to finishing. A few tests I’ve run seems to indicate I can get a good bond between the pulls and the drawer faces with ‘super-glue’ – provided I lacquer the contact face of the pulls (yellow glue bonded poorly – as did raw wood). Has anyone else tried bonding a lacquer finish to lacquer finish, and if so, with what results.
Thanks!
Replies
The bond will only be as strong as the thin film of lacquer, in other words, not very strong. Can you drill a small wooden pin or two to help make a mechanical attachment? Sure would be better than having a big chunk of the lacquer breaking away with the pull at a later date.
Beat it to fit / Paint it to match
Thanks for the comments and suggestion. I'll look into the Acetone suggestion. Interestingly, in none of the tests I made did the lacquer bond to the wood fail. I've attached a photo of one of the pulls, and I think you can see why I'm reluctant to try drilling. This pull is 2-1/2" long x 1/2" deep x 7/16" high at the widest point.
Dave , After seeing the pull , I would glue them raw wood to wood .
For best results, clean the finish off the surface and glue them on for a permanent application .
regards dusty
Thanks - No doubt your suggestion is the most secure (short of a mechanical fastening. If I had better skill at spraying, that's what I would have done from the beginning. Since everything's now finished, I think I'll try some type of gluing to the lacquer. If they fail, I can always fall back to your suggestion and refinish.
Well, the pulls have been installed using gel instant glue. Time will tell if they hold or not. Unfortunately, as can be seen from the attachment, the top pull shifted without my knowing it. Perhaps another good reason not to do it this way. Thanks to all for your suggestions.
Unfortunately, the picture I referred to above didn't attach. Here's another try.
Thats a really fun looking box , thanks for sharing .
dusty , boxmaker
Thanks - First time on a project is always the toughest - at least for me.
with each project comes confidence and skills, stay with it and move slow but do not fear the not known yet.
it's all good in wood
.
regards dusty
Never had good luck making a bandsaw box. Just me... not my bandsaw!
Very nice work!
Just as an aside for your future use Dave, I have made similar boxes and used similar pulls. Most of the ones I have made, I made the body from walnut and the pulls from cherry. The wood species does not matter, just giving you the details. I use 1/8" dowels set about 1/4" into the pull and drawer front and a little glue, pvc, on the dowels and the drawer front to pull mating surface. I use very little so I do not get any squeeze out. The pulls are very secure and I have not had any trouble with the finishing.
Your box came out looking very good and the box/pull design allows a little vatiation in pull placement without detracting from the looks. I assume this is based on Lois Keener Ventura's designs. She has some great designs and have formed the foundation for a great many band sawn boxes. Keep on making great looking boxes.
Bruce"A man's got to know his limitations." Dirty Harry Calahan
Thanks Bruce - That's a good scheme, and actually it's what I intended to do until I tried drilling into that indented-ring end-grain - using the cut-offs from the pulls that I originally made too deep. The first couple of tries drilled ok - then WHAM! I just didn't want to take the chance.Dave
Nice box !! I have made a couple and posted on on an old knobs and pulls thread.So what kind of wood? Fir? that end grain is a nice highlight, considering we most try to hide it. I have made a few pulls and intergral hinges. Bamboo BBQ scquers Spelling? small strong also bronze brazing rod. 1/8 inch, cheap and won't react with the wood.
Thanks for your comment and pull suggestions. In case you didn't get in on the beginning, the box itself is made from a cutoff end of construction grade cedar. The pulls are either spruce or fir and I believe they are spruce. Both of those woods occasionally have that grain. The long grain pattern is called 'bear scratch' because for many years it was thought to have been caused by animals scratching a tree as it grew. They now know that not to be true - but according to the forestry articles I've read, they are still uncertain as to what causes it. I used some of the long grain for the soundboard on a psaltery I made. The pattern of the end grain with the very close, oddly shaped rings is called "indented ring". I didn't even know I had it until I examined some odd boards I bought from a deceased woodworker's shop. It contained a 1-1/2" x 5-1/2" x 3' long piece, and I've tried to make the most of it.Dave
Thanks for the reply. Where did you get the info about the indented ring?Years ago we were hiking through Prince Albert National Park. We sat down for a break and noticed some "Bear scraches? about 10 feet up a tree. We fiqured that was one big bear. So we made a lot of noise and moved rather swiftly away.
It's been too long ago for my old memory to remember exactly where I got the info on indented ring. I believe I just prowled around the Internet until I found a photo of it - then followed the links and leads. I believe (though not sure) that the best information I found was from Auburn University. Try Googling "bear scratch" or "indented ring".Dave
Wipe you parts with Acetone first and wait for it to flash off before the glue.. Any wood.. Not just oily woods...
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