With the recent article on the strength of glues in Fine Woodworking confirming my own opinion of polyurethane glues. I was wondering what glues others use for doors, windows and other external architectural components.
Until a couple of years ago and a new employer I use a urea melamine formaldehyde glue called Aerolite 308. My present employer (not a tradesman)Likes us to use Gorilla glue for everything and won’t hear the argument that it is best to use the right glue for the right job. He did get caught out once using a standard PVA to glue a cill. It was after this that he swapped across to Monkey glue.
Replies
PBCK1W1,
Titebond III.
I am not sure how many centuries it will last if used underwater.
Do you have any difficult problems? :-)
Mel
Measure your output in smiles per board foot.
Mel, one of our members (don't remember who) tells of gluing up a trial part of some sort with TBIII, then tossing it out on a pile of wood, whence it lingered all rainy winter. Joints were still tight the next spring. Wasn't "under water" but pretty close, LOL! I believe that's what they call "anecdotal evidence."
forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)
Edited 8/31/2007 12:02 pm by forestgirl
FG, I have five redwood and cedar flower boxes I made in the early 1990's. On two I used Plastic Resin (urea formaldehyde) and the other three were glued with Elmer's Exterior Carpenter's glue (identical to TBII. Both adhesives are rated "water resistant" and meet ANSI Type II specs for water resistance. The boxes lived outdoors outside NYC until 2003 when we moved to coastal NC. They are still being used and show signs of wood deterioration but no glue line failures at all. I guess my point is that there is rarely a need for a "waterproof" adhesive unless it will be used in a totally underwater application.Howie.........
FG,Mel I use Titebond111 on thepieces I make which are all for outside,I made a couple of Adirondack chairs a couple of years ago and with the new found "talents" I've learnd on Knots Ithought I would try and get them as they should be. Anyway the screws came out easiely but noway could I seperate the timber. And thats after probley 20 mths.of rain and afew dry days in the other 4mths.
Regds. Boysie Slan Leat.I'm never always right but i'm always never wrong. Boysie
I echo the sentiment TITEBOND III. It's easy to work with, stable, tough, and water resistant.
I am also a fan of Weldwood Plastic Resin.
That depends on what I feel like I need the glue to do.
If it is something small, I like the ease of tightbond III.
For lots of larger things, like a raised panel exterior door. I like epoxy. Well, for that mater, I use it for all RP walk-through doors. Also for all vacuum bagged bent laminations.
For some larger dimension lumber that will be expected to move from direct exposure, and or prolonged drying in direct Sun, I may use 3M 5200, which comes in a caulking tube, and should be used with a large enough or thick enough joint so that the cross thickness will have enough elasticity to stretch through the expected movement without being torn from one of the surfaces. This stuff is as tuff as a truck tire, and really sticks good, but is nasty to use. Like epoxy it can be used below the waterline on boats.
I am not fond of the monkey foot stuff. Ha
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