when gluing boards together for the sides of cabinets should you remove the glue on the surface with a damp cloth, or wait till it is dry and remove with a scraper as sometimes i get a faint line after staining. i am useing titebond original
Discussion Forum
Get It All!
UNLIMITED Membership is like taking a master class in woodworking for less than $10 a month.
Start Your Free TrialCategories
Discussion Forum
Digital Plans Library
Member exclusive! – Plans for everyone – from beginners to experts – right at your fingertips.
Highlights
-
Shape Your Skills
when you sign up for our emails
This site is protected by reCAPTCHA and the Google Privacy Policy and Terms of Service apply. -
Shop Talk Live Podcast
-
Our favorite articles and videos
-
E-Learning Courses from Fine Woodworking
-
-
Replies
After it dries. Don't douse the joint with glue either. All that's needed is a thin layer on one edge. Use only moderate clamping pressure.
pipes,
Neither.
I've found the easiest way to remove squeeze out is to let the glue set until it's rubbery, and then just peel it off. The only caution is to let it set long enough that the interior of any bead is rubbery too. It avoids the potential finishing hazards of wiping it off, and the additional work of scraping.
Alan
pipes,
I've had my greatest success removing the glue when rubbery...about 15-20 minutes after applying...and when dry, scraping or planing the seam. In many cases (not all) the seam disappears.. Also, I use spring clamps at the end of the joining boards to insure an even glue up..
For soft woods, I find it better to remove the excess well before it dries. Once it is dry, you frequently end up pulling out some wood fibers when you scrape it off.
To avoid the problem in the first place, try this. When you are doing your dry-fit and preliminary clamp up, run some furniture paste wax down the glueline(s) on both sides of the panel. Overlap the glueline by a 1/2" or so. Now open up you dry-fit and do the glueup. Let the glue fully dry and then, using a scraper, scrape of the excess. It will pop right off because the wax has prevented it from soaking into the wood along the glueline.
As part of your surface preparation, wipe the gluelines with some mineral spirits and wipe dry with paper towels. That and your sanding will remove all the wax residue.
Howie
Great idea, just one uninformed question. How does the wax affect the finishing process?
Mike
When gluing up dovetailed drawers, I put a piece of masking tape along each edge that will experience "squeeze out". When the glue is dried you pull off the tape and the glue line is gone. You may need to score the glue line with a knife to ease the process. Not a new trick at all.
No reason you couldn't do the same with gluing up panels. Maybe I'll even do this myself next time!
This forum post is now archived. Commenting has been disabled