Replies

1. 
   oldusty | Jun 28, 2009 08:51pm | #1

          stu,

            I've used Roo glue on finished backs and such , give it a try .

                  regards     dusty

2. 
   integrity_woodworks | Jun 28, 2009 09:47pm | #2

   non trad stu, glue does not bond to finish long term period!!! its weak and will fail.glue must bond to the wood.
   Dan

3. 
   Quickstep | Jun 29, 2009 12:02am | #3

   Almost any glue will stick somewhat to either varnish or shellac, but the resulting joint will only be as strong as the bond between the finish and the wood, since that's really the point of adhesion to the wood and since finish isn't glue, it won't be so good.

4. 
   roc | Jun 29, 2009 09:07am | #4

   No don't use Gorilla .

   How about, and this is just nasty and goes against all things that are right and good in this world but, am I mistaken to say contact cement should work ?

   I think even epoxy will be useless trying to adhere to oil/varnish finish. But rubbery old contact cement . . . aaaaaaaahhh . . . I think it will work. Get some high grade stuff and it might even last a while. (fifty / sixty years)

   Roughen the surfaces, let dry, then stick together. If a slip together joint put it together wet . . . naaahhhh, well maybe . . . naaaahhh . . . ?

   What say me hardies ?

   roc

   Give me six hours to chop down a tree and I will spend the first four sharpening the axe. Abraham Lincoln ( 54° shaves )

   Edited 6/29/2009 2:10 am by roc

   
   

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   Edited 6/29/2009 2:16 am by roc

1. 
   KiddervilleAcres | Jun 29, 2009 03:06pm | #5

   roc,

   Ummmm, get some rest - you've been up and at 'em way too long.   I think you're peeing in the wind and ye aint upwind either.

   :-)

   Regards,Bob @ Kidderville Acres

   A Woodworkers mind should be the sharpest tool in the shop!

1. 
   roc | Jun 30, 2009 04:14am | #9

   >you've been up and at 'em way too longYa think ? Uh oh. I am tired. Feeling kinda weak in the mind. Well I did my best. I thought I did quite well. in the past I would have said chuck it in the bin and start over. What do I know. The only thing I use contact cement for is Barge Cement to resole my Berkenstocks. No, really. I do.Thanks for keeping me on the right road.: )rocGive me six hours to chop down a tree and I will spend the first four sharpening the axe. Abraham Lincoln ( 54° shaves )

2. 
   roc | Jun 30, 2009 04:38am | #10

   Aaah Kidder,I missed your recommendation on a glue/solution. I did look most thoroughly. Yours must have gotten lost in the tricky new Knots " improved site functionality ". Will you post it again ? And could you hand me that towel ?rocGive me six hours to chop down a tree and I will spend the first four sharpening the axe. Abraham Lincoln ( 54° shaves )

1. 
   KiddervilleAcres | Jun 30, 2009 05:05am | #12

   roc,

   Thanks man.  Did ye catch the towell I throwed at ye?

   Regards,Bob @ Kidderville Acres

   A Woodworkers mind should be the sharpest tool in the shop!

1. 
   roc | Jun 30, 2009 05:44am | #14

   >Did ye catch the towell I throwed at ye?Oh yah, you know me; I have eagle sight , simian grip and cat box reflexes.rocGive me six hours to chop down a tree and I will spend the first four sharpening the axe. Abraham Lincoln ( 54° shaves )

   Edited 6/29/2009 10:46 pm by roc

5. 
   SteveSchoene | Jun 29, 2009 05:40pm | #6

   Why is it that you can't remove the finish on both pieces in the areas that need gluing?  It's likely to be tedious to do, but also likely to be necessary if you have to rely on a glue line to hold things together. 

   It might also help for us to know more about the objects to be joined to figure out alterntive solutions. 

1. 
   non trad stu | Jun 29, 2009 11:23pm | #7

   Thank you and all the other respondents.  I'm dealing with 25 kitchen drawer fronts that my lady decided last minute to have in a 1/2" ply panel framed by 1 3/4" X 3/4" maple as opposed to the 3/4" solid wood I had planned on.  The drawer carcases are 5/8" ash and are predrilled (oversize to allow for adjustment) for the washer screws.  As you can see, 1/2" ply plus 5/8" ash allows only a 1" screw with most of it in the drawer box.  The frame members do not overlap the box sufficiently to allow for screws into them. Thus my dilemma.  hey will take some inadvertant abuse being kitchen drawers.

1. 
   SteveSchoene | Jun 29, 2009 11:44pm | #8

   If I am understanding this correctly, your problem is attaching your now frame and panel drawer fronts to the ash drawer boxes, with only perhaps 3/8" penetration of screw into the panel of the drawer front.  But, in addition to those screws which establish the alignment of the drawers, won't there then be drawer pulls that are through bolted through the panel and the drawer box.  The washer screws hold the alignment, the bolts hold the panel to the drawer box.  Of, course, if your design doesn't call for metal pulls....

1. 
   KiddervilleAcres | Jun 30, 2009 05:03am | #11

   Steve,

   Sounds to me like your solution should work with the right pulls.  Could one also apply a strip of glue to the middle of the fronts/box fronts too?  If the boxes are made of q-sawn material there should be very little movement yes?

   Regards,Bob @ Kidderville Acres

   A Woodworkers mind should be the sharpest tool in the shop!

2. 
   non trad stu | Jul 01, 2009 02:53am | #17

   You do understand correctly.  Yes there will drawer pulls with 3" spacing between bolts and cemterd in the drawer front which range in width from 12" to 24".  I am concerned as to whether or not those pulls will keep the wider fronts in place and flush sufficiently well over time.  Perhaps you can tell that this is my first try at this sort of thing? <lol> Perhaps I'm over thinking it.

1. 
   SteveSchoene | Jul 01, 2009 05:30am | #18

   You would have both the through bolts, which is as strong an attachment as any, and the washer screws which establish the alignment before you drill for the pulls.  As long as the bolts on the pulls hold, the force on the washer screws is only in sheer and it would take quite a bit to dislodge them.  And, since you haven't glued anything, if you do need to make a further adjustment down the road it is still possible at the cost of an extra hole or two on the inside of the drawer box. 

2. 
   RDNZL | Jul 02, 2009 05:13am | #20

   For this application, it sounds to me like a really strong double sided tape would be perfect. especially if applied near the pulls.

3. 
   davcefai | Jul 02, 2009 07:59am | #21

   Another possibility is to use angled screws into the drawer fronts. This will give you a longer penetration length.However you might be worrying too much. The attached photo shows a 3/4" front attached to a 3/4" drawer. Material is pine. The attachments are via the drawer pull (2 bolts) and 4 1" screws.This, and 8 others have survived 4 years so far. Incidentally the impact on closing is taken by the drawer front itself.

   
4. 
   non trad stu | Jul 02, 2009 04:08pm | #22

   Thank you.  That is reassuring.

2. 
   roc | Jun 30, 2009 05:59am | #15

   > Why is it that you can't remove the finish on both pieces in the areas that need gluing?Oh that is too easy ! Didn't you read the rules to this game ?: )Must stick to the varnish.Rules are rules.By the way Quickstep >Almost any glue will stick somewhat to . . . varnish< Actually most woodworking glues, and epoxy will just pop loose quite easily. It is going to take something with a permanently rubbery, suction cup like thing going on to stick to the varnish.rocGive me six hours to chop down a tree and I will spend the first four sharpening the axe. Abraham Lincoln ( 54° shaves )Edited 6/29/2009 11:02 pm by roc

   Edited 6/29/2009 11:07 pm by roc

6. 
   roc | Jun 30, 2009 05:33am | #13

   >Pliobond¯ contact cement

   http://www.handlaidtrack.com/pliobond-industrial-contact-cement-p-420.php

   Pliobond¯ contact cement bond virtually all porous and nonporous substrates. SUGGESTED USES: include . . .wood, plastic, plastic film,

   your oil varnish is just plastic film.

   Make up a test sample and heat cure it to speed up the cure just for the test sample. Then try to tear it apart. I bet it holds just fine. The final work doesn't need heat cure. It will loose the solvent and cure reaching max strength in the weeks or months to come.

   roc

   Who just can't let go of this CC thing.

   Give me six hours to chop down a tree and I will spend the first four sharpening the axe. Abraham Lincoln ( 54° shaves )

   Edited 6/29/2009 10:34 pm by roc

   
   

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   Edited 6/29/2009 10:35 pm by roc

7. 
   non trad stu | Jul 01, 2009 02:46am | #16

   I'm sorry maybe I'm losing it in my old age but what on earth does your kind messsage and attacments have to do with my original post re glueing finished wood to finished wood?  I'll bet that since you did post respone(s) to that thread this one was addressed incorrectly!!  Nice looking stuff that l v.

1. 
   roc | Jul 01, 2009 07:55am | #19

   >How did I post that stuff to youAll I can say is oh that's where it went when it disappeared and I couldn't find it to correct it.Sorry meant to go else where. Had two screens open I suppose.You Earthlings all look alike to me: )rocGive me six hours to chop down a tree and I will spend the first four sharpening the axe. Abraham Lincoln ( 54° shaves )