Has anyone had experience in glueing oily wood such as Teak, Babinga or Moradillo? After several failed joints I’ve begun to wonder if it’s the glue, the preperation or just the quality of the wood. Obviously these are hard exotics with natural oils but surely there’s a glue that will work.
On a slippery slope…
jl
Replies
Don't have a lot of experience myself but Ernest Joyce's "Encyclopedia of Furniture Making " says that if glued within a few hours of working it's staightforward gluing with a synthetic resin or hide glue. It goes on to say that if need be you can clean the surface with a cellulose thinner.
I was led to believe that Joyce is a good book but as I say, I've no personal experience. I'm trying to use up the yellow squeeze glue that I bought.
Good Luck!
I believe you need to clean both pieces with alcohol and use gorilla glue. I made a plane with a cocobolo sole and a honey locust body. It has held for two years with not problem
Knothead,
My experience with oily exotics leads me to stick with epoxy for the most part.
You'll sometimes hear people suggest wiping the surfaces to be glued with acetone before glue-up. This advice can be is potentially misleading, however, as the objective is to remove any oil that might contaminate the glue joint, and a quick wipe-down can liquify the oils endemic to the wood contaminating the surfaces to be glued.
Instead, I wipe the joints thoroughly with acetone for several minutes (think of the precautionary way the nurse double-swabs your arm with betadyne before you donate blood). What this does is both liquify and remove the natural oils on, and just beneath, the surface of the wood.
With the oil safely, but temporarily removed, I immediately apply epoxy and complete the glue-up before any residual oil has a chance to percolate up to the surface of the wood.
I hope this is the kind of information you're looking for.
Good luck,
-Jazzdogg-
Use epoxy and wash with acetone and you will have no trouble
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