Replies

1. 
   SgianDubh | Nov 11, 2010 11:37am | #1

   A slow setting epoxy resin seems a likely candidate for consideration. West System is one brand you might look for if you are based in North America, although this brand is also available elsewhere in the world, eg, in the UK where I live.

   The makers of epoxy resins that provide a comprehensive product range have formulations with setting times from about five minutes to two or three hours, all dependent on the temperature you're working in, ie, the hotter the temperature in the work area the faster the adhesive sets. Slainte.

2. 
   PCM | Nov 12, 2010 08:22am | #2

   system three epoxy

   In addition to West epoxy, there is the System Three co.

   http://www.systemthree.com

   I seem to recall a thread somewhere in Knopts that discussed West vs. System Three

   Pete

3. 
   BruceS | Nov 12, 2010 08:39am | #3

   DAP Marine
   I would probably go with DAP Weldwood Marine Recorsinol. It is a two part type glue, resign /hardener. Depending on ambient temperature the setting time varies and it sure will handle water. I helped build a surf dory with it. Only rub is that it is purple.

1. 
   HowardAcheson | Nov 12, 2010 09:04pm | #6

   Many marine laminations are done with urea recorcinal.  But, it's primary problem is that it dries to a purple glueline.  OK for dark woods but may not be attractive for light colored woods.

4. 
   Quickstep | Nov 12, 2010 09:30am | #4

   I used resorcinal for a lamination that was 13 plies, each 1/8" thick by about an inch wide. It worked out very well, but I really struggled to get all the strips coated before the glue started to set. I believe West makes an extra slow hardener (made for the tropics). It would be my choice for a big lamination so you can work at a relaxed pace. West is made to be absorbed by the wood and as a result may require multiple coats. All the more reason to have a long working time. One other thing about epoxy is that you're experience very little "creep" of the glue joint; something that's important for bent laminations. Regular wood glue, especially the waterproof versions remain very rubbery and will experience glue creep over time.

   PS, there are rollers made for applying fiberglass resin that are perfect for applying epoxy. They leave just the right amount to make an effective joint while minimizing squeeze out.

   http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_SP100A937S120222176P

1. 
   Jfrostjr | Nov 13, 2010 09:05am | #7

   Glueing laminations

   Quickstep,

   Michael Fortune  uses a notched spreader to place glue on his lams. The lams are laid flat, side by side, (don't glue the last one!) and taped together at the ends. The glue is 'poured' onto the surface and distributed with the spreader. ACE hardware has a small plastic tool that has fine notches; 1/16" I think. 

   When the glue is even over the entire surface, just remove the tape, stack them up with the last un-glued lam on top.

   Frosty

5. 
   mufti | Nov 12, 2010 01:08pm | #5

   Laminations at large

   Recorsinol will not let you down in my limited experience, but have you considered also adding a pattern of large copper clenched rivets? Belt and braces approach can be good unless you get caught short of course.

   Any good boatyard should be able to help with a source.

   Good luck, Mufti

6. 
   swannyww | Nov 26, 2010 11:54am | #8

   i also use gorilla glue for about 13 to 15 laminations and the older gorilla glue had a slower set time.  I called the company and complained about the new faster set glue and they told me customers complained the older glue was too slow.  I asked if they would make both faster and slower and they said it depended on how much feedback they got.  Call them.  What I found most helpful is to have everything laid out in advance and I squirt the glue from the bottle in a line along the strip of wood, doing about 4 at a time.  I them use a thin strip of wood to evenly spread the glue along the strips.  Working fast, but sure is the key.  I place the strips in the form and using a high molecular strip of plastic to back the wood strips on the outside.  i also use small blocks of wood on each clamp area to exert even pressure on the strips. I begin clamping in key areas to allow the form to be roughly clamped.  When this is done I begin the process of adding clamps till the strips are one piece.   Sometimes the strips will rise up and become uneven in the form and  then I use small blocks of wood and a clamp to push the strips back down.  My form is designed to allow me to access the strips easily.   The worst thing that happens is when a strip breaks when you have just about gotten the whole thing tight.  I make up extra strips for this purpose and I also reject strips that have a curve to them after they are cut on the saw because they are harder to flatten out in the form.  I usually cut the strips and select them, then let them sit taped together until I need them.  Cupran removes gorilla glue.

7. 
   Troy | Nov 29, 2010 04:25pm | #9

   I have used Weldwood brown wood glue.  This is a powdered wood glue the you mix with water, worked well with an ipe bent wood rocker that has been outside for over a year.   You might get a brown glue line. 

   Troy