I know this sounds pretty simple, but what kind of gloves should one use when finishing with shellac, dyes, etc. Don’t some things dissolve the surgical-type gloves?
Thanks,
Michael
I know this sounds pretty simple, but what kind of gloves should one use when finishing with shellac, dyes, etc. Don’t some things dissolve the surgical-type gloves?
Thanks,
Michael
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Replies
find the blue disposable gloves. They are a bit pricey compared to latex but solvents wont eat the nitrile gloves.
I think i pay 12 bucks a box of 50 for the nitrile gloves
I've found that mineral spirits weaken and destroy common latex gloves. I go with nitrile, too, that you can find in either disposable or semi-permanent forms. You can also look in the big box stores for "stripping and refinishing" gloves that are solvent resistant.
I hate the feel of latex, but find that the blue, nitrile gloves are sometimes overkill when you're doing finishing work that doesn't require you to get your hands fairly wet.
I buy the Stanley HandHelpers vinyl disposable gloves, $11.99 per pack of 100 at my local True Value hardware store. I use them when brushing on shellac and poly, and when wiping on gel stains, gel varnish, oil/varnish blends, etc. They also come in handy for odd tasks where you just don't feel like dealing with grease, dyes and other things on your hands.
If I'm going to do wet sanding or use a heavy duty stripper or other strong solvents with lots of direct hand contact, I go for the heavier nitrile gloves.
David
Look, I made a hat -- Where there never was a hat!
Thanks for the glove suggestions. It looks like the nitrile gloves are the way to go.
Michael
While the blue gloves are "disposable'--isn't everything?--i have some i've used for many sessions of staining. Keep different pairs for different tasks.
if you have problems finding stuff, the latex are pretty easy to come by at hardware stores and paint stores. The nitrile tend to be less so. Have noticed that Gemplers http://www.gemplers.com stocks a variety of gloves, and not too pricey. They're ag focused, but farmers use the gloves for the same reasons we do, just they're handling chemicals of a different nature.
Michael - I've gotten some good deals on disposable nitrile gloves on ebay.com - you can get 1,000 for $30.
Paul
F'burg, VA
auto parts stores that cater to the professional mechanics are a good source for latex and nitrile gloves.
Farm and Home stores are another.
Do you have a problem with the disposable's being too tight? Man I appreciate not having gooped up skin but I can't leave them on for more than 15 minutes or my hands cramp up from getting curled. Oh yes they all say large on the package (large in china I'm sure)
Have you checked with a real medical supplies outfit? I know there's some doctors with big hands out there, and they wouldn't put up with that nonsense.
Sounds like a plan. Maybe I can find some for that extra long index finger too!<G>
Or for a real custom fit there ought to be some kind of quick drying plastic dip. Taking them off would only hurt the first time.
Actually, when I'm working in the metal shop I use barrier cream instead of gloves because I don't like gloves around rotating machinery. The cream doesn't protect as well as gloves, but grease and cutting oil aren't as nasty as some of the finishes being discussed, either.
Edited 12/11/2002 9:06:58 AM ET by Uncle Dunc
actually where i buy my gloves (auto parts supply) they come in sizes, s, m l, and xl. Nitrile and latex. the gloves i see at the lumber yards are all Mediums comonly disguised under the broad unisex label of "one size fits all" *cough*cough*BS*
Latex gloves can be used with alcohol (for shellac) and with aniline dyes. It is with the solvent and oil-based products that latex deteriorates. Nitrile gloves are more durable, though not recommended for aniline dyes. I like the vinyl gloves because they are more economical than the nitriles but less binding and more versatile than the latex.
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