Replies

1. 
   UncleDunc | Aug 08, 2005 07:36pm | #1

   Why attach the glass at all? Just rabbet a recess for it and lay it in. It won't go anywhere.

2. 
   KesslerCraftsman | Aug 09, 2005 05:55am | #2

   What are the dimensions on the wood strips?  Does the glass just fit into a rabetted top?  If so, could you just set the glass in?  If your glass, as already cut, is too thin, could you consider purchasing a thicker piece and forgoing the molding altogether.  Please give more detail and, perhaps, post a picture of the dilemma?

   I've had decent luck with a pinner..but the risk is that a pin doesn't go in straight and hits the glass...not a pretty sight.

   Could you use very very small dabs of clear silicone, clamping the trim in until the silicone dries?

   Larry

    

    

1. 
   dukeone | Aug 09, 2005 07:14am | #3

   Larry: I like the idea of silicone, do you know if it will stick to the Rosewood if I clean the oil from the surface with acetone first? I would consider skipping the trim but I milled some just for the purpose and have it mitered and trimmed to fit, I'd hate to see it go in the scrap pile. The glass is 1/4'' and tempered so not using it would also be wasteful. I was designing on the fly so these problems might have been avoided if I planned ahead.

   Thanks, KDMKenneth Duke Masters
   The Bill of Rights
   December 15 1791
   NRA Endowment Member
   LEAA Life Member
   CRPA Member

1. 
   KesslerCraftsman | Aug 09, 2005 08:55am | #4

   Hi,

   If your Rosewood is unfinished, then yes, it should stick.  I'm also a stained glass guy and we use silicone all the time to install windows in standard rabbetted window frames...I'd just put the silicone down, place the rosewood on top and press into place..and clamp tight.

   For furniture, I'd also probably use the solvent-based vs. the latex water-based clear silicone stuff.  With the latex, who knows what kind of water-related damage you'd have.

   Be sure to wipe the silisone off well if you expect to successfully finish the Rosewood strips.... I'm assuming that you'll finish after installing all of this.  If not, then carefully remove the finish from the glass side of the Rosewood molding strips..so the silicone will adhere to the Rosewood.

   Please loop back and share with all how this worked.

   lp

1. 
   dukeone | Aug 24, 2005 05:17am | #9

   I.P.: 8/23/05 Finished the table today, nothing I'd want to post a picture of (maybe next project) but I used solvent based silicone to attach the Rosewood trim after wipeing with acetone. Finished the trim with Watco natural after assembly. Looks like it will hold. Thanks for the advice. KDMKenneth Duke Masters
   The Bill of Rights
   December 15 1791
   NRA Endowment Member
   LEAA Life Member
   CRPA Member

1. 
   KesslerCraftsman | Aug 25, 2005 05:09am | #10

   I'm glad things worked out.  Send me a picture at:  [email protected]

    

   Let me know if it doesn't work?  Failure can teach us just as much as success...

    

   Larry Pile

   Kessler Craftsman

   http://www.kesslercraftsman.com

2. 
   mikegagne | Aug 09, 2005 10:48am | #5

   duke, if silicone scares you use clear polyurethane sealant. It has a stronger grab and much longer life than silicone. 3M makes one, as does PL Co and Lexel, if you can find it is very good too. aloha, mike

3. 
   joinerswork | Aug 09, 2005 08:23pm | #6

   duke,

   If you are planning to attach mitered trim around all four sides of your table top, I suggest you rethink your plan.  The trim attached to the ends will either pop loose or cause the top to split as it (the top) tries to move seasonally. Your glass  should be sized so it won't push the trim off the sides as the top shrinks, as well. See the current thread that begins with "UHHH..."  

   A  splined, mitered frame of rosewood, with the top as a recessed floating panel, and the glass filling the recess flush with the frame, is the first thing that comes to mind as a solution.

   Regards,

   Ray

1. 
   dukeone | Aug 10, 2005 12:15am | #7

   Ray: The Rosewood trim is just around the glass, to hold it in place, the top is Oak. The glass has an 1/8'' clearance around the perimeter of it and the trim is 3/8 x3/8. Someone suggested using oil base polyurethane  sealant to attach the trim, I think I'll go with that to avoid making holes for fasteners so close to the glass. KDMKenneth Duke Masters
   The Bill of Rights
   December 15 1791
   NRA Endowment Member
   LEAA Life Member
   CRPA Member

1. 
   joinerswork | Aug 10, 2005 03:31pm | #8

   duke,

   Good luck with your project,

   Regards,

   Ray