Replies

1. 
   carlmccarty | Feb 22, 2008 04:50am | #1

   I just took two doors to the glass shop this week. They installed the glass using clear silicone. It looked great.

2. 
   bones | Feb 22, 2008 05:28am | #2

   I just bought that set (well my says sommerfield, but I think they are one and the same).  The dvd instructional listed several options.  You could use the rubber strinnging around the outside edge, but you indicated the dors are made, so I guess that's out.  You could get some picture frame points or window glazing points and cover them with decrative trim on the inside.  Or you could go with silicone sealant. 

   Government's view of the economy could be summed up in a few short phrases:
   If it moves, tax it. If it keeps moving, regulate it.
   And if it stops moving, subsidize it.
   
3. 
   Jimurock | Feb 22, 2008 07:42am | #3

   I used clear silicone -- all you really need is a few drops spaced out round each light, between the glass and the door.  It stops any rattling when you open and close a door that you've finished off  inside with wooden trim rather than glazing putty.

   Jim

4. 
   joinerswork | Feb 23, 2008 05:04am | #4

   Dana,

   The traditional means was putty.  Your local hardware or paint store will probably have a product made by DAP, called "Painter's putty" (not their "33" glazing compound), also "universal tinting colors" (venetian red, lamp black, burnt umber, raw sienna, for instance), and "commercial whiting" (really, it is chalk dust).  These three items can be mixed together to make a colored (blend the tinting colors to match your finish color) putty that will harden in place.  Start by adding the colors to the putty, til you get a close match, colorwise.  Then add the whiting to restore the putty to its original stiffness.  (I do this on a piece of scrap glass, but can be anything flat and smooth-- think play-doh, or mud-pies.) Put your glass in the door, secure with glazing points, and put the putty in, using first your fingers, then a putty knife.  Roll a piece of the putty into a "snake", and press it into the corner between the glass and the frame.  Draw the knife thru the putty at an angle so that the remaining putty that gets pressed into the corner will not show from the front of the door, and carefully remove the waste putty that the knife cut off.  Be careful and "miter" the corners so they look nice ( finish up by working from each corner toward the center).

   Let the putty dry for a couple days, then carefully using a razor blade in a holder (the kind you use to scrape the decal of your windshield) scrape off the smears and crumbs of putty on the glass.  Use some 0000 steel wool to get it off the wood (this is all done after the door has been finished, and the finish is hard).  It will take a couple weeks for the putty to get hard.  It will skin over in a few days, so that it can be carefully handled/ gently cleaned with windex.

   Ray

5. 
   70445 | Feb 23, 2008 07:08pm | #5

   Interior or exterior?

   Interior I prefer to use quarter round  to match the wood species used, mitered corners.  You can make your own quarter round, or Rockler has quarter round in different wood species.  I personally think it looks a lot better, but each to his/her own taste. 

1. 
   montec24 | Feb 24, 2008 01:29am | #6

   Thanks everyone. Looks like clear silicone is the way to go. Maybe I will add a couple brads or something on the inside. I had planned on using a piece of wood or quarter round but the rabbet is only 5/16 deep by 5/16 wide so after the 1/8 glass it is only 3/16. kind of a small peice to nail on.

   Thanks

   Dana

1. 
   Jimurock | Feb 24, 2008 03:32am | #7

   First one I did had 1/4 inch moulding and I got away with using an 18 gauge brad nailer without any damage.  Now I'd use a pinner or do it manually -- easier on the nerves.  I like the moulding because it's easy to replace if the glass ever breaks. 

   Jim

6. 
   Steinmetz | Feb 24, 2008 04:43am | #8

   Clear G E 100% silicone in spots around the perimeter.
   When the caulk is dry, slice off any excess
   with a straight razor blade.

   A good trick when tacking a few brads into sash
   to temporally secure panes before adding caulk.

   Lay the sash/frame flat on table and lay in pane of glazing.

   Using a tinsmith's square head hammer, position the brad to
   lie flat on the glass...hold the brad down with a finger
   (point to the wood).. Slide the hammer head (on and along the glass)
   and tap the brad in enough for it to lie hidden by the putty.

   If the frame material is very thin and apt to break,
   hold a small block of wood/ plastic /hockey puck? against
   the back of the rabbet to absorb the shock of the hammer blow.

   Done this hundreds of times and never broke a pane. Steinmetz.

   
   

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   Edited 2/23/2008 8:51 pm ET by Steinmetz