Replies

1. 
   CaseQuarter | Feb 26, 2009 01:36am | #1

   I don't have a great deal of experience in this area, but I did have a thin kerf Freud combination blade that thought worked very well.

1. 
   WillGeorge | Feb 27, 2009 11:19am | #4

   a thin kerf Freud ..NO NO NO!

   I use mostly the Freud.. No complaints from this old man using them.. Thin kerf in hardwoods a bad idea to ME at least. Stick with a standard width blade unless cutting miters on sort of thinner 'sticks'...EDIT: Just my opinion though. As stated... The Ridge Carbide TS2000 is better than just OK! Have used one but not on my saw.

   Edited 2/27/2009 3:24 am by WillGeorge

1. 
   CaseQuarter | Feb 27, 2009 04:06pm | #5

   WillGeorge,

   As I said, I don't have much experience there. I currently run a Forrest WWII which I like quite well. But the question was for mid-priced blades for use in softwood and occasional hardwood with a possible preference to thin-kerf blades. So, with that in mind, the Freud thin-kerf blade that I mentioned worked quite well and I think it made a huge difference in the performace of the benchtop saw that I owned at the time over the full-kerf blade that came with it.

2. 
   MikeHennessy | Feb 27, 2009 04:34pm | #6

   Hey, Will. I gotta disagree with the thin-kerf-o-phobia. ;-)

   The only time I have ever had problems with a TK blade was when I was trying to cut a very thin slice off an edge where the blade is not fully burried in the cut -- as in trimming off less than a kerf-width. In those cases, the wood can force the blade away from the fence a bit as it comes up against it. Easy solution -- I just don't do that anymore.

   If I need to take off that little, I pull out a plane or, horrors(!), take the blanket off the jointer and fire it up. ;-) FWIW, I don't think this problem is a function of the blade being a TK blade, but rather, of it being a glue line blade that bears more on the sides of the teeth than a regular blade does.

   I've never had any special problem with the WWII cutting wood up to the full depth capacity of the saw -- maybe 2-1/4". The only problem I have with thick wood is occasional binding when internal stress closes the kerf and that can stall my underpowered saw. (I'd rather deal with a stall than a kickback anyway, so I'm not really complaining about this.) But again, I believe that's more due to the fact that it's a glue line blade than a TK.

   And I don't even own a set of stabilizers. (I know, another heresy. LOL.)

   Mike HennessyPittsburgh, PA

1. 
   Knotscott | Feb 28, 2009 03:55am | #9

   A good thin kerf blade was a huge plus on my smaller saws. If the saw has low runout and doesn't vibrate much, a good quality thin kerf should be fine, and it puts considerably less strain on the motor allowing you to cut thicker wood with relative ease. I've tried over 30 TK blades and have never had an issue. Stick with a good one and you should be fine.

2. 
   WillGeorge | Mar 04, 2009 07:15am | #28

   Sorry for the late post but I just re-read it.

   "as in trimming off less than a kerf-width. In those cases, the wood can force the blade away from the fence a bit as it comes up against it. Easy solution -- I just don't do that anymore."

   Maybe I should have said I have had problems using one but then again I was cutting Jatoba with it's usual wild grain (at least the 'sticks' I usually pick out).

   As you stated.. Easy solution -- "I just don't do that anymore." The extra sawdust is a small price to pay!

   And in general, I have experienced strange 'happenings' with thin-kerf blades when using my 'normal' woods I tend to work with.

   Thinking about it, maybe it is because my table saw is loosing power? I have a 'so called junk' Ridgid that is only 1.5 HP? I think.. I for one think it is a great saw (for the price) but it does seem to slow down a 'wee' bit as far as blade speed with stock over approximately 1.5 inches when using my normal woods. Jatoba, Purpleheart, Hickory, and sometimes Ash and sometimes Maple.

   I do not experience (or maybe not as noticeable) using a standard kerf blade. I realize this conterdicks what most think.

   I have never used a WWII blade. I normally use those Orange things from Italy?

   In fact one of the best blade I have ever used came off of my old (no longer have the saw) Ryobi 3000. I still have thae blade and has been sharped so often the guy does no even want to grind anything more off of it. I just looks at be and says.. It's you again...

    

    

3. 
   flairwoodworks | Feb 28, 2009 08:16am | #12

   Will,That was my general impression... until I read the article in the last FWW by Roland Johnson (pg 43, #204)Chris @ http://www.flairwoodwork.spaces.live.com(soon to be http://www.flairwoodworks.com)

    - Success is not the key to happines.  Happiness is the key to success.  If you love what you are doing, you will be successful. - Albert Schweitzer

1. 
   WillGeorge | Mar 01, 2009 06:27am | #16

   That was my general impression..

   It is still mine. I now only use my thin kerf blades for mitering. But then again, I'm just me.

    

2. 
   Quickstep | Feb 26, 2009 03:42am | #2

   I have two blades that I use regularly and like. One is a Systi-Matic Budke combination thin kerf blade. The other is a Forrest Woodworker II standard kerf.  Both work admirably in my opinion. The Systi-Matic rips fast, I suppose at least partially because of the thiner kerf. The flip side to the thin kerf is that will occasionally distort in thick stock if the feed rate is too fast. The Systi-Matic cross cuts well also. The cut from the Woodworker II is as smooth as a baby's behind on both rips and crosscuts, but requires a slower feed rate when ripping.

3. 
   MikeHennessy | Feb 26, 2009 03:17pm | #3

   I'd vote for the Forrest WWII. It lives on my saw 90% of the time. $15 over your budget, but worth it.

   Mike Hennessy
   Pittsburgh, PA

4. 
   JerryPacMan | Feb 27, 2009 05:01pm | #7

   I would highly recommend a Tenryu Gold Metal GM-25540 blade.  It is the best blade that I have ever used on my Unisaw.  The kerf is .111" which is between thin kerf and full kerf.  When the blade starts cutting wood you almost cannot tell that it is cutting wood.  The blade cuts like a hot knife thru butter, leaves a very smooth cut and is extremely quiet when cutting.  This blade was on my Unisaw 90% of the time as it is a good ripper also.  I now have a Hammer slider and the Freud Fusion is my preferred blade, I might get the GM re-bored for use on the slider. 

   http://www.tenryu.com/gold_medal.htm

    

   Life is what happens to you when you're making other plans.

   When your ship comes in... make sure you are not at the airport.

1. 
   philip_r | Feb 27, 2009 07:31pm | #8

   I currently have a 3 HP SawStop... but I had a DeWalt Hybrid for years.

   Based on my experience, I would stick with a thin-kerf blade; given the HP rating on your table saw.  They remove less wood and take less HP to operate.  When combined with a splitter, you should have no problems cutting hardwoods.  

   IMHO - When possible, regular kerf should be left to the 3 HP and up saws.  I use a 1/8 kerf, 40 tooth WWII, by forrest.  They make the exact same blade in a thin-kerf.  Another thing to note - every blade will perform better if you keep them clean.... which reminds me... time to go clean :0(

2. 
   polarsea1 | Feb 28, 2009 04:23am | #10

   I agree about the Tenryu Gold Medal. Great blade, smooth crosscuts and rips.

3. 
   jprov | Mar 01, 2009 10:09pm | #21

   Thanks JerryPacMan.. This blade looks really good.. I appreciate you response.... In fact, ALL who responded to my request, I appreciate it.. Thank you... jprov

5. 
   forestgirl | Feb 28, 2009 07:43am | #11

   Just to fill in a little on the Freud line...I've found the LU84 to work really well as an all-purpose blade.  It's a 50-tooth (as opposed to the 60-tooth Knotscott mentioned), I have the chrome version (not coated). 

   I prefer to change to a 24-tooth blade for rip cuts in anything more than an inch, though, it just saves wear and tear on the blade and (when I had a 1.5 HP oldie) the motor.

   forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-) 
   
6. 
   roc | Feb 28, 2009 09:16am | #13

   Here is another vote for the Forrest WWII. Really like it.

   roc

   Give me six hours to chop down a tree and I will spend the first four sharpening the axe. Abraham Lincoln ( 54° shaves )

1. 
   jprov | Mar 01, 2009 08:54pm | #18

   Thanks roc for your response.. I am gathering that the Forrest blades are up there in quality, et al... It's good to hear positive responses from "real" folks who have used the blade versus advertising testimonials...

1. 
   roc | Mar 01, 2009 10:00pm | #20

   >up there in quality, et al<
   and
   >responses from "real" folks<Well . . . when it comes to table saws I am only partly "real". I don't use mine much. I took a low end saw and filed and fettled it into something useful. For thousands more I didn't see the features I wanted in a table saw. YET.Since I tend to ramble . . . ramble for very specific reasons I shall now do so :When the lap top computers came out I had specific ideas about what a lap top should be and they weren't so I never bought one.Then the MacBook Air (Apple) came out a decade later. I Pounced. I am pleased.When a decent ( suiting my idea of a precision wood cutter ) table saw hits the market I will probably pounce. Until then . . .OK end of ramble. See that wasn't so bad.Now back to >up there in quality, et al< in my estimation and research of magazine tests over many years the Forrest blades are the best there is and the resharpening service is dedicated to keeping up that rep. The only other that I have any reason to believe is better (or at least as good ) is the Tenryu ( see small ads in the back of mags or older mags ). http://www.tenryu.com/I have no hands on experience of these blades but testimonials I have read lead me to say they are truly great blades e.g., quiet, effortless cuts, no vibration even with thin kerf. Just what I read by people who used them. Down side is big bucks.There are many people here with more experience than I.You can always put one of these expensive blades in a new expensive saw but why buy a cheep blade now only to later put it in an upgraded saw ?Well that is my modus operandiStill waitingrocGive me six hours to chop down a tree and I will spend the first four sharpening the axe. Abraham Lincoln ( 54° shaves )

7. 
   Don01 | Feb 28, 2009 09:48am | #14

   I have the Ridge TS2000 on an old 1.5 HP Rockwell cabinet saw. Lovely blade, but I don't believe you will find it in the $70.00 range. It does very well as long as I keep it clean - that is probably true of all blades.

   Don

1. 
   Knotscott | Feb 28, 2009 11:11pm | #15

   Holbren sells the TS2000 for ~ $80 shipped using "SMC10" or "BT310" discount code. Not $70, but not too much more.

2. 
   jprov | Mar 01, 2009 08:44pm | #17

   Thanks Don01, I will definitely check it out... I don't mind paying a bit more for a good all around blade.....

8. 
   Rich14 | Mar 01, 2009 09:52pm | #19

   jprov,

   "There are so many out there. "

   Bewildered by blade choices? You're not the only one. The problem is, if you haven't noticed, ask this kind of question here, and you'll get an opinion from a user of every saw blade available, and then some. And, of course, only those happy with their blades will post.

   For $70-120 dollars ANY blade you buy will perform beautifully.

   But here's my suggestion for your described conditions, especially considering the power of your saw. Get a Freud Diablo, thin kerf, 40 tooth carbide blade. They are $35-40 at Home Depot.

   *Gasp*

   Dare I mention the Borg?

   Yes, Home depot. (or order it on line if your local store doesn't have it.)

   http://store.qualitydist.net/frd-d1040x.html

   http://www.amazon.com/D1040X-Diablo-10-Inch-General-PermaShield/dp/B00008WQ2X/ref=pd_bbs_7?ie=UTF8&s=hiqid=1235932968&sr=8-7

   $40 is all you need to pay for a blade that will perform effortlessly. Even if you were cutting hardwoods exclusively, this blade will let you do do everything on your saw that it was designed to do. It will give you silky smooth cross cuts and glue line rips in soft wood and hard wood (1-1/2" hardwood, up to 3" in soft wood). I prefer a dedicated Flat Top Grind rip blade if I have a lot of ripping, but the Diablo will do the job very well for the kind of work you describe.

   After you get some experience with this inexpensive blade, you might want to try a more expensive type. But for "hobby" use, it won't show a lick of wear for years (unless you abuse it by running into nails or other junk in wood (it happens). Occasionally clean off the gunk that will accumulate, especially from soft woods. And even when it comes time to replace and you think you need something more expense, consider that it's your saw itself that will be the limiting factor. Save some money, this blade is great!

   I have absolutely no connection to Freud or the vendors above. I just like to recommend good products when I find them.

   Rich

1. 
   jprov | Mar 01, 2009 10:51pm | #22

   An interesting perspective that makes good sense.. In line with what you said, I have had my table saw for 10 years and the blade is the original.. It definitely needs replacement (sharpening) whatever, but it sure has serviced me well.. And your right about hobby use, and no abuse, and a blade should go for a very long time.. Thanks Rich14. I was feeling like I needed to spend more for quality.. I looked at the Diablo at Home Depot but didn't even consider it.. Your response has changed my view..

1. 
   AZMO | Mar 02, 2009 05:52am | #23

   The Diablo is a decent blade, and a real value at $40 bucks. I use the Diablo rip blade as well and it works great also. On a small HP table saw the thin kerf is a better bet on hard woods. You need 3 HP saw to really motor a regular thickness blade through 2" maple. I love my WW2 rip blade, very smoth and needs no work to glue up. I also have a WW2 blade with flat bottom grind, which is very nice for cutting rabbits.

   One key for any blade is to clean them of the pitch and buildup before you go to long. That can ruin a blade as quick as dropping int.

   AZMO                  <!----><!----><!---->

   -----------_o

   ---------_'-,>

   -------(*)/ (*)   http://www.EarthArtLandscape.com

1. 
   okotok | Mar 03, 2009 06:43am | #24

   I"ve been using the Freud Diablo 7 1/4" 40 tooth for years on my 10" saw. For 90% of my cutting, it's fantastic. It's only when I get into thicknesses over 3/4" or so that I throw in the Forrest woodworker. The Freud is cheap (under $20) thin kerf (.055" or so) and gives a virtual glue ready surface on hard and softwoods. It's a very popular blade with luthiers, which is my primary woodworking hobby, although I do plenty of other building projects.

1. 
   Shoemaker1 | Mar 03, 2009 04:14pm | #25

   As I said in another post I keep the thin kerf go the good stuff.
   I got a Makita DB slider, love it some told me the stock blade was a Tenryu. Never heard about them before. But is it sweet. smooth cuts quite am going to check out there site,

2. 
   JerryPacMan | Mar 03, 2009 05:30pm | #26

   My Tenryu Gold Metal was made in Japan and is an excellent blade.  Can you tell me if your miter saw blade is also made in Japan?

     

   Life is what happens to you when you're making other plans.

   When your ship comes in... make sure you are not at the airport.

3. 
   Shoemaker1 | Mar 04, 2009 02:34am | #27

   Flipped it around, spun the blade and no markings of where it's made. Said 10 inch but didn't say how many teeth?

9. 
   Nick54 | Mar 05, 2009 09:16pm | #29

   I asked the same question not very long ago, well because I too am a rookie to fine woodworking. I purchased a Powermatic PM2000 Table Saw and was advised to purchase a Freud Fusion - Great Blade- I did however later purchase a Tenryu Gold Metal, mostly on the recommendation of Marc Spagnuolo of the Wood Wisperer. You won't waste your money with either choice.

1. 
   jprov | Mar 05, 2009 10:34pm | #30

   Thanks Nick54.. Man, nice saw.. Its way outta my league with my 1.5hp Ridgid 2412.. I appreciate the response... thanks..