General Bed extension blocks tailstock
johnhenry
| Posted in Power Tools and Machinery on
I got the extended bed for this lathe, and my problem is when I try to move across the trasition from one section to the other, I need to take a run at it or pound on a piece of wood with a hammer to get it to move.
Lubrication doesn’t seem to make any difference. I have tried to lap the top surface with a wetstone but that seems to make no difference either.
John
Replies
I had a similar problem with the Delta. I have both sections mounted to wooden bases that clamp to my bench, and improved things somewhat by mucking about with shims, but the transition's still a bit balky.
Jim
My lathe is a General Midi version. The two sections of bed (the second is basically a copy of the bed of the actual lathe) are bolted together underneath. I used extreme care to level the two pieces on top and I even lapped them with a wet stone to smooth the grinding marks left behind.
If you keep doing it the way you are you will damage the machine. There has to be a reason for the hang up at the joint, take the time to find it. It should be easy to fix with a bit of filing or shimming once you know the cause.
Shop Manager for FWW Magazine, 1998 to 2007
I don't pound on it with a metal hammer or something like that. If I have enough room I can just "take a run at it" and the tailstock gets across.
If I push moderately hard, I can get it across but when there is a workpiece mounted, this isn't always possible.
Your first post said that you "pound on a piece of wood with a hammer" to get it to move. Piece of wood or not, this is not at all good for the machine, nor is "taking a run at it". I have seen machines ruined by the practice. As others have also pointed out, there is something wrong at the join between the two bed pieces, probably on the underside of the ways. It shouldn't be all that hard to figure out and correct.John White
Shop Manager for FWW Magazine, 1998 to 2007
lathe ways
I put up with this until I had to move in 2011.
Low and behold, the sections once bolted back together allow smooth crossing of the tailstock
If the top of the bed is a flat plane then it is the undersides not lining up.Try adjusting the banjo to allow a bit more slack.It is very simple engineering but pounding it is not the solution.Which model lathe is it?
By "bango" I assume you mean the bolt that holds on the tailstock underneath?
I tried loosening it without any meaningful improvement.
Yes you are right about the banjo.We have a General 260 (8 ft between centres)with an extended bed and it was quite a trick lining it up as the shop floor is not flat let alone level.however from what you have said I would assemble the beds and turn the whole rig upside down and I bet you will see a step to either grind or stone out.
What are you turning on 8 foot centers? were you from no info on your profile?
Anything too long for the standard lathe bed, newl posts. Did a lot of columns at one time but there are shops that have bigger capacity ,glass reinforced plastic etc. and are cheaper.It is just one standard 260 bed extension added. The standard 260 barely gets 33" with a chuck.Too short for back legs of a Shaker chair.
I was very careful lining up the two sections. I got a flat reference bar from a friend who does machining and used feeler guages to see how consistent the gap was.
It was so much trouble to get it right, and I gave back the bar, so I am only going to unbolt the two pieces as a last resort. Even with the longer standard bed, I find the lathe is a bit short turning modest sized spindles.
I may not quite understand as I have only had experience with the 260 but the tailstock and toolrest or handrest as some call it references on the top of the bed but locks on the underside so any difference in thickness from top of bed to the machined underside will give you that problem(within the tolerance of the locking handle) .Another poor point of the 260 is , if the locking plate (under the bed )swings out of plumb by much , it jambs. Frustrating as hell General groupie!!!!!
I found my manual. I remember I didn't really look at it all that much as it had only a little useful information, geared towards people who have never owner own before.
The exact model is a Maxi-Lathe 25-100.
Another thing that I don't like about the lathe is the entire tool rest. The fixing lever broke inside (cheap plastic) making it neccesary to use an allen key to change the hieght. Also the rest is too short (6") and the surface finish is such that tools don't glide across it smoothly. I'll probably replace it before long.
The short tool rest is a common complaint among midi owners. LV finally came out with a 12" one with a smooth finish: http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.aspx?c=1&p=57663&cat=1,330,49238&ap=1
Jim
I have other issues with the tool rest. First of I broke the tightening clamp (only plastic) so I need to work that problem as well
John,
It could also be something to do with the clamping block under the tailstock which slides along with it-in a channel under the bed. I can't remember the details of a General lathe but I think it has the usual arrangement: clamping the tail stock draws up a block of iron against the bed, and if this piece can't slide freely in its way or channel the tail stock binds.
Remove the tail stock and examine how it works- I am sure you will cure the problem then, which could only be a bit of filing of rough casting or removal of grit. Never file or hammer the bed surface.
If there is mis-alignmnet this may be because of grit between the mating surfaces, but you can check with a straight edge on the bed.
There may also be mis-alignment on the under side which affects the clamping block- and this can be filed.
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