Replies

1. 
   SteveSchoene | Jan 26, 2009 09:36pm | #1

   Basically the answer is no, the first coat of stain pretty much defines the darkness since it also seals the wood.  A second coat may add evenness which does make it appear a bit darker.  Maple is hard to use pigmented stain to really darken.  Some people recommend only sanding to a coarser grit--say 150 grit, so that the pigment can stick in the groove, but this can give a muddy appearance pretty quickly. 

   Sure, you could get a darker effect by not wiping the gel stain off thoroughly, but you will be obscuring the grain by essentially "painting" the surface.  Too much get stain and you run the risk of weakening the bond of a future top coat, since the binder in the stain isn't as strong as a regular top coat material.   

   Using a darker stain over the already stained wood will have only a very little additional darkening effect, again unless you leave the excess gel not properly wiped off.

   To get dark on woods like maple, the best approach is to start, on bare wood, with dye.  Then this can be sealed and a separate coat of a pigmented gel stain added to add a little depth, but not to change the color significantly. 

   If you have done this on the project itself, I suggest you decide that you like the effect you have now.  If that isn't satisfactory, you would have to use a chemical stripper to remove as much of the stain as you can to get back to bare wood.   Remember, you can't sand plywood. 

   If you have been doing this on scrap sample boards, then go back and try using the dye first.  With dye, you can't see the effect until at least a coat of your top coat has been applied. 

    

    

1. 
   velomark | Jan 26, 2009 10:39pm | #2

   Thanks Steve.  I appreciate the advice.

   I used the Gel Stain only on the hardwood sections, so I assume I could sand it off.  Which do you think would be quicker, sanding or using a stripper?

    Cheers,

   Velo

1. 
   SteveSchoene | Jan 27, 2009 03:20am | #3

   Stripping is the way to go.  It will give a better result than sanding, which often leaves the surface less able to accept stain or dye evenly than stripping.  Do be sure that the stripper is neutralized and well cleaned from the surface.  You may not get every spec of the old stain, but enough to open up the surface to accept the dye. 

    

2. 
   mapleman | Jan 27, 2009 05:48am | #4

   v,

   Since you only have stain on the solid wood parts at this point - I disagree with Steve - I think it would be easier to sand. I would try sanding first in an inconspicuous place. The gel stain is not a very thick film forming finish although it does seal the wood slightly (this is what is preventing subsequent coats from darkening the color) so it will come off with a minimum amount of work. Make sure it's good and dry or it will gum your sandpaper very quickly.

   Personally I am not a fan of stripping anything because of the mess - and you will likely still need to sand after stripping to smooth any grain raising.

   I'm a big fan of these General gel stains and use them almost exclusively in my business when a gel stain is called for. If you like the dark mahogany color I see no reason to go through the trouble of using a dye first. Like Steve said, you won't know the true end result (color) with a dye until you apply the finish clear coat. At that point if you don't like the dye then you have to go back and start over with another dye color.

   My motto is: KISS - keep it simple stupid

   Lee

   Edit: I also think the stripper and subsequent washing it off will affect how the next coat of stain is absorbed much more than any sanding.  But, you know what they say about opinions ...........

    

   Edited 1/26/2009 9:55 pm by mapleman

   Edited 1/26/2009 9:57 pm by mapleman