Replies

1. 
   Jimurock | Jul 27, 2008 09:10pm | #1

   This thread isn't exactly buzzing, so I'll throw in my 2 cents worth.  I don't have the Grizzly, but I have a similar tablewing-routertable that I've added to my SC to save space.

   The Grizzly is similar to a number of such tables meant originally for contractor saws -- General, for instance, makes one, but it's only 10" wide.  There's no problem substituting one of these for a wing on the contractor, because the guts of that saw hang out the back, so the router hanging down on one side doesn't interfere with anything.  The 10" wing width also means that the weight of the router is close to the centre of the saw, and doesn't cause tipping.

   For a cabinet saw, such a router wing can't replace one tablewing because of the saw's tilting mechanism cover.  It can replace the other wing but tends to interfere with turning the saw's tilt handle.  Grizzly has solved that problem by making the router wing wider (18" I believe) and extending the router's position further away from the saw motor.  That could cause tilting, so they specify legs to take the router's weight.

   I like these router wings because they're as flat as any tablesaw.  Unlike the Benchdog and similar systems there is no separate insert to cause sag -- the hole for the router is directly in the cast-iron wing, with two rings  to reduce the size.

   The router is held in place by four clamps that slide in grooves under the table, and can accommodate any router I have, with the router's own baseplate left on, if desired.  I use a Triton which doesn't require a router lift,  so I don't know how one of those would work.

   You can use the saw-table's miter groove for router sleds, and can piggy-back a routerfence with DC onto the saw fence, with the knowledge that the fence will always be straight without fussing with measurements.  There should be room underneath the table to store bits etc if you want to build some kind of storage cabinet there.

   If there's a downside it's that you can't leave the tablesaw set up for sawing while using the router, and vice-versa -- though you pretty much can for routing small pieces.  To me the space saved justifies that inconvenience.

   Hope this is of some use,

   Jim

2. 
   BruceS | Jul 28, 2008 05:21am | #2

   The photos at the Griz site are not't too clear.  But I can guess that it is just a melamine insert between the rails as most of that style are.  The standard fence that comes with the saw is not going to be of much use for router table use.  The system will be handy when you use piloted(bearings) bits for decorative edges or dadoes using the saw fence but that's about it unless you adapt a regular splitable router fence.

   Work Safe,  Count to 10 when your done for the day !!

   Bruce S. 

    

1. 
   Jimurock | Jul 28, 2008 06:06am | #3

   Check out the online manual.  It's a cast-iron replacement for the righthand wing.

   Jim

3. 
   TWG | Jul 28, 2008 11:46am | #4

   Thanks Everyone,

   I feel pretty good about the flatness and strength of the wing. I have seen the machine before, but I never had a chance to use a router table built into a wing before. The PM2000's router wing seems to be a bit more comprehensive. But of course, the PM is almost $2K more.

   I would have to attach a split fence to the Grizzly.

   Thanks again.

1. 
   Jimurock | Jul 28, 2008 04:43pm | #5

   I haven't seen the PM in the flesh, but its router wing appears to be melamine, unsupported in the 30" fence version, with router lift and fence.  I think I'd want to add legs for support, and I'd worry about sagging, unless there's some sort of brace built in.  If your router needs a lift, that would make it attractive.

   The fence shown seems pretty basic.  If you went for the Grizzly, and they don't supply a router fence, General offers a metal one with replaceable faces.  It can be adapted to other brand tables by drilling 2 holes in the wing.   If you haven't tried it before, drilling (and tapping) holes in cast iron is a breeze.

   Jim