In case you haven’t seen it the latest issue of FWW has an article by Pete Turner on building a blanket chest. Very nice design and use of wood. Now my question, I would like to build a similar chest, however, I don’t have any 5/4 wood (and there isn’t much available locally). Anyone see a problem with using 4/4 for the parts that he uses 5/4 for? I am thinking of using 3/8″ panels instead of the 3/4″ panel he used. Basically, I would like to use thinner wood and thus end up with a lighter chest.
Also, based on the Jointery Shootout article, I plan to just use butt joints and not waste my time with mortise and tenon joints. LOL! I will probably use a 3/8 mortise and tenon joint, rather than double tenon.
Merry Christmas Everyone.
Replies
Maybe you meant lap-joints?
I use Ash and Hickory quite often. Ash is wonderful to work and usually so is Hickory. I love the grain contrasts between the woods. I have to say I do not 'think' I have used a true Pecan though.
Your call on the wood thickness. I would say, why not! (as in not a question). I have not seen the article but I tend to purchase 4/4. Up from there, at least around here, price goes up very rapidly.
Just my opinion, as in does not make it the right way to do things. With modern glues I see no reason why you cannot laminate the wood if the thickness is really needed.
Your call again.
If I laminate, I surface each half to one-half of the final dimension plus alot, to a bit, oversized depending on what I have available at the time. I let the sticks set a few days and then glue up. I never bother to 'sticker' them. I set then on end and lean them onto the shop wall. (I do put the ends that face the floor, as in a garage floor here, onto a old hunk of plywood with some plastic sheeting on it so that end does not take up more moisture from the concrete floor.
I am not sure if it really helps but I laminate all the individual sticks (parts) from the same board as in side to side if possible. I 'try' not to ever mix from a different board. If I cannot do so, I go with what I have to work with.
When I need to laminate I always clean the gluing surfaces with acetone. No matter what species of wood it is just before gluing. I glue BOTH pieces of wood and clamp.
Just me, but I leave any lamination I make clamped for at least 24 hours. No 'fudgin' on the time clamped. As in, this may really not be necessary. Just what I do. Doing the time wait can make a lamination glue-up for a project go very slowly depending on how many clamps you have.
I can truthfully say I have never had a lamination go bad. I can say, however, I was sure glad I made the 'sticks' a 'bit' wider, thicker and longer than the final wanted size. Maybe just something I do that causes it. Sometimes... the very ends or sides of the lamination will show a very small gap in some places. Maybe my surfaced 4 sides before laminating of the sticks is less than perfect? Not sure but the laminated pieces will be OK about 1/8 to 1/4 inch inside. I have no idea why.
Send picture of finished project.
Edited 12/25/2008 3:30 am by WillGeorge
Since I enjoy agreeing with Will, I'd say that you, as a PheasantHunter, shouldn't get your feathers in a flutter over adapting the design to your (practical) wishes.
Yes I loved my guns when I had them. Gave them all away when I had Children..
I was the hunter that loved to shoot BUT I purposely missed.. Them birds sure jump if dirt hits them...
I just finished building a toy chest/blanket chest for my 2 year old nephew. I used 4/4 stock, with frame and raised panel construction. The frame was milled to a hair under 7/8th's, and the raised panels were all a hair over 5/8th's. I also wanted to keep the weight down. I used mortice and tenon construction on all the joints.
Your plan will be just fine.
Jeff
This forum post is now archived. Commenting has been disabled