Hi All,
It has been a while since I have last posted a question. I am the one with the 100 year old fir that I have been resawing into 1 by (3/4″). I have gotten a really good blade from Santa Rosa Tool for my 20″ band saw. It is working great for the resawing. It took me a while to find the right blade. I have gotten most of my kitchen cabinets completed and if you open the attachment you will be able to see what I did on my kitchen floor.
Now I am ready to start on the living room floor. Here is my question: Should I glue the fur to my sub floor? I am still thinking of splinning the floor boards together with a 1/4″ strip of ply, rather than tongue and groove. It will just save me a step. Any suggestions? Thanks, Wavos
Edited 3/25/2004 6:47 pm ET by wavos
Edited 3/25/2004 9:36 pm ET by wavos
Replies
Oh man, I was hoping it was "fur" floor.
Wavos; Wow what a Mega-file jpg. I resized it so the people with dial-up can see it! Hope you don't mind!
The floor looks Great! But I don't really understand what you are doing with the "Fir strips" the photo looks like 4" dividers between the tile sets, so I don't see what the splinning would be for?
Marsh
Sorry for not making myself clear.
Yes that is 3 1/2" grid with tile set in. What I am plaining to do in the rest of the house is just solid plank flooring with random widths. The fir strips are going to be used like biscuits. I am thinking that I will route a 1/4" groove in both sides of each board and use 1/4" ply as a spline.
Do you have any opinion about gluing the boards down to the sub floor?
My vote is to NOT glue the floor to the subfloor. Le the floor move as it wants, just make sure you make allowance at the edges. Gluing is like imprisoning the wood...unless it's a thin veneer, or a multi-ply, you should let it rock 'n roll, or else it will literally rock and roll (e.g., split, buckle, etc)!
Thanks for the info. My only concern is trying to prevent squeaking.
If you use the splines I think you said you were going to use and nail the floor securely there should be no squeaks. Also, be sure to put paper under the new floor...
Concerning the paper, should it be the 30LBS weight?
30 lbs., 40 lbs., whatever it takes. You've just gone beyond my level of expertise. I go to the store and look for the heavy brown stuff on a roll. The giveaway to me is that it's in the same section as the hardwood flooring...
Hay, nice kitchen! Do NOT glue the floor. If you do opt for splines, I'm not sure if you're planning to face nail at that point, I am guessing that you are. I would bite the bullet and T&G the floor, blind nail through the T & be done with it. Most floors are now installed over "rosin" paper, which is pretty thin. I like to lay down tar paper, I've only used 15lb, but 30 would work. The only drawback is that you tend to footprint the new flooring after waling on the tar paper. It sands right off. Mark your floor joists on the walls, and staple the paper down. I use yellow chalk for to mark the joists on the paper, and have at it. Post a pic and ley us know how it goes!
John
Again thanks for all the info. I am sending a picture of the island. Remember it is a work in progress.
Fur floors! I was hoping someone had a use for excess deer!
Bob
I hope wavos understands that some of us are just frustrated comedians (and comediennes)! I saw "fur floors" and was ready to respond "I have fur floors, but that's because I live with 2 cats and a 104lb long-haired dog!"forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)Another proud member of the "I Rocked With ToolDoc Club" .... :>)
And I was hoping it someone with some advice on how to keep fir floors from getting torn up by 2 100 lb and 1 15 lb dog...
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