Thought I would post a few photos of a technique that I use on rifle stocks that is useful to woodworkers in other areas. To dress up the entry point or “nose cap” of a half-stock rifle I turn to pewter when I am in a rush and I need a quick fix. Its not a difficult task and the applications for ornaments on furniture are endless.
You need a few basic tools that many of you have in the shop and others can find without too much frustration.
To get it going:
propane torch or mapp gas(hotter and quicker)
a small cast iron cooking cup
pewter or plumbers babbit for a more satin look.
exacto knife and a chisel or two
coarse file and a mile file
Rather than bore most of the knotters, I will post a few photos of the muzzle cap to an inexpensive rifle I am making for a boy that’s graduating from high school who loves to hunt and compete in blackpowder rendezvous meets in the area. The rifle is stocked with walnut(unusual for me) the boy got from a tree that fell on his grandpappy’s land during a storm we had when he was in 9th grade. Lots of emotion in the wood when we split out the root section. I couldn’t say “no” when he picked the chunk I wanted to take home.
The rifle is “iron mounted” except for the muzzle cap. I will attach some photos of inlayed pieces and show the poured muzzle cap. Pouring pewter in the wood is easier than chiseling out and fitting small pieces. The hardest part of any rifle project is fitting the buttplate to the stock. Lots of trips to the candle and fitting it in place. Pouring pewter is a walk in the woods.
I will post a little more on the pewter if there’s interest. Send along a question if it doesn’t make sense or you’re just curious. I’m trying to get back to reading knots a little more these days and share some info.
Hope the photos add some clarity to the post. I will be pouring some ornaments to send to a builder in France over the next few weeks. I will be happy to post progress on the walnut rifle and some of the information photos I am sending to my friend in France if there is interest.
dan
Edited 5/16/2009 9:32 pm ET by danmart
Replies
Dan,
I always am delighted by your work. I wish I lived closer so I could "apprentice".
Have you ever considered doing an article for FWW?
Mel
Measure your output in smiles per board foot.
Hi dan,
So, what do you use to make the "outside" of the mold? If I understand correctly, you are pouring the pewter directly unto/around the forend of the stock?
Ray
3 x5 index card or cardboard laying around the shop. Its important to fill the gaps between the barrel and the stock where it touches the side of the barrel.
Look at these shots and maybe it will be a bit more clear. Again this is not a rifle planned for a pewter cap. On this one I will be heating bone and cow horn in hot oil and bending the rubber-like material around the stock to make the cap. I'm thinking of putting a piercing or two. We'll see.
d
Dan - Curious about something. Why doesn't the pewter (or lead in the case of babbit) scorch the wood? I'll admit it's been a long time since I poured my own fishing lures, but I do seem to remember that the lead was really hot and would burn the crap out of you if you got a spatter on your skin.
If you heat the pewter to the melting point with an iron cup(holds heat well) and you don't over cook it, it will not burn the wood. It cools super fast as it comes in contact with the wood. I use graphite to increase the flow. No burn.
If you heat it up too long, it will bubble and burn the wood. Its like heating oil to shape horn. Water won't get it quite hot enough but oil will burn it if you go too hot. Fine line.
D
I use pewter more often these days than lead/babbit. I like the more satin look of the lead but it needs more heat to take it up to melting(600-625F). The pewter will melt down around 450 so its a bit cooler and less likely to burn.
If it is a super shallow cavity, you might get a little burning on an edge. In my case I color the wood so any small burns are hiden easily.
dan,
Thanks, I'll have to give that a try. I would never have thought to try to use cardboard, would have expected it to burst into flame from the heat of the molten metal.
I did try to melt some "solder inlay" into a buddy's catlinite pipe once. Had a H of a time getting it to stick in the grooves he'd carved. If only I'd known to wrap it in cardboard.
Ray
Ray
If you look at the photos I sent of the end of the barrel channel with the holes drilled for training- note the inside of the channel. I "bugle" the drilled hole on the inside where I can get to them. Sometimes I cut a small channel so the pewter runs together and locks. Its very important to make "gates" for the pewter to flow in and lock. I'll be showing more of the stages when I have one I'm going final on.
Edit: Ray go to the link below and ignore some of my babble. Its a good summary and it zeros in on the small stuff around a barrel which I think you were wondering about.
dan
http://www.trackofthewolf.com/pdfs/pewter-muzzle-cap-instructions.pdf - Similar pages
Edited 5/18/2009 6:09 pm ET by danmart
Dan,
An interesting subject, and I agree with another poster that it might be a good article for the magazine.
I tried to follow the link you posted but it didn't work.
A couple of questions:
1. Do you somehow mechanically bond or link the pewter to the wood? I didn't see mention of that in your previous posts. I assume you don't glue it, as the hot metal would deteriorate the glue. So do you drive a screw into the wood so the metal can flow around it to hold it fast to the wood?
2. Is there a problem with the wood expanding and contracting with the seasons and the metal not doing the same? Can that open up gaps or create a raised or sunken edge against the metal? Or can it cause the cap to come off entirely?
ZoltonIf you see a possum running around in here, kill it. It's not a pet. - Jackie Moon
A couple of questions:
1. Do you somehow mechanically bond or link the pewter to the wood? I didn't see mention of that in your previous posts. I assume you don't glue it, as the hot metal would deteriorate the glue. (So do you drive a screw into the wood so the metal can flow around it to hold it fast to the wood? ) No the pewter does the work.
Take a closer look at post #4 in this thread. Look at photo muzzle cap 001. You will see drilled holes. On the inside of the cap you will see the drill hole is flared or "bugled" to help keep the cap in place.
2. Is there a problem with the wood expanding and contracting with the seasons and the metal not doing the same? Can that open up gaps or create a raised or sunken edge against the metal? Or can it cause the cap to come off entirely?
No pewter is very soft and it moves nicely with the wood in the outdoor season and during storage.
Zolton
If you see a possum running around in here, kill it. It's not a pet. - Jackie Moon
Dan,
Thank you for the further explanations. What you said makes sense..
ZoltonIf you see a possum running around in here, kill it. It's not a pet. - Jackie Moon
Thanks dan,
I'll definitely give that pewter casting a try sometime. Your track of the wolf link said I wasn't authorised to enter, but I think I got your drift, as regards locking the casting to the wood with undercuts and etc.
Ray
Another try with instructions Ray. I have the illustration and instructions attached. Give this a try.
dan
Thanks dan,
Ray
Beautiful as always Dan. Is the rifle styled on the Ohio (Vincent) type? I have used pewter for knife bolsters on a trade knife using a Green River blade made for a friend. Not at all as difficult as I thought it would be. I used heavy brown wrapping paper and it worked fine.
whatever works. the stuff cools down pretty fast. Its a normal concern to worry a bit about burning the wood but I have used 2 pieces of paper in a pinch and the paper held up for the pour. That was a one time deal. I use cardboard that bends easily and then I can use the 3x5 card to write myself a message... coffee break while the stuff cools down.
later
Dan,
What do use for a mold? Sand?
It's something I would love to learn. The school I went to to learn cabinet and furniture offered a course in working with Bronze. But with materials it was about $600 bucks, too much for a starving student at the time.
Taigert
take a look at the attachment in message 46751
d
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