This post is essentially addressed to Charles, if you’re out there.
I posted a note in the ‘Flat bottom kerf’ thread with the essentially the same question but I didn’t see it appear in my topic list so I’ll initiate a new discussion on this blade set. Having seen the advert in the latest issue, I’m wondering if the blades can be used individually and, if so, what is the width of the kerf for a single blade. Again if they can be used individually rather than stacked next to each other, could one use a spacer between them to cut both cheeks of a tenon in one pass?
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Dennis, my middle name is Charles, So here's my two cts.
Depending on the sawtabls shaft lenght, it is possible to gang two blades , but don't use cheap hardware washers as spacers.
Also, the spacers should be as wide (in it's outside diameter) as can be, to not strike the table's insert and still have the blade extend up to the depth required.
To be safe, make and use a special insert with double clearance (One kerf for each blade) The spacer can be made from hard wood and bored for a 5/8" shaft (even slightly wider). Steinmetz
Stienmetz -Thanks for the input. Yes indeed I would make a throat plate for this operation. Although a dado insert would probably suffice since I'll be using a dedicated sled to cut these joints.The reason I'm asking for this info from Charles (of Freud fame) is that I don't currently own two blades that I can be confident of having the exact same diameter. I'm assuming that if I buy one of these box joint blade setups they will be (grin)I'm thinking that I could turn (on the lathe) the spacer for the blades and if I can preserve center from that operation I can drill the 5/8" arbor hole. Other than obvious vibration problems do you think it would be a problem if the hole were not absolutely centered to machinists' type specs?
Dennis, that's why I said bore the hole a tad wider. (in case the hole is not perpendicular) The only requirement is that the spacer's sides are parallel and the hole is a loose fit.
Naturally, the O D should be reasonably concentric. Hardwood would be a good choice at first, before you experiment with more precision metal work (brass / aluminum) Steinmetz.
Steinmetz -Sitting here reading your reply I just realized the most accurate way to make this spacer! I'll see how it works, first.
Dennis,
The blades are not intended to be used individually. The tips are offset on the plates and the uneven forces would cause the blade to track in unpredictable ways. The same would be true of spacing between the blades. When used as intended they will cut either 1/4" or 3/8" wide.
Freud America, Inc.
Thank you, Charles. Guess I'll just have to pop for a couple new blades that I can be sure of as being the same diameter. I've had almost every blade in my stable sharpened at least once so can't be totally certain they're the same. Still and all I think those blades look like winners.
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