Replies

1. 
   ring | Dec 02, 2006 08:39pm | #1

   "Shock and Awe". Use a combination of applied pressure (bearing puller or such) and blows to vibrate the part at the same time. Of course, there's always heat - if you can safely blowtorch the pulley or bearing and not the shaft, it will expand just a bit, often enough to get things going.

   DR

2. 
   BruceS | Dec 02, 2006 10:56pm | #2

   What type of lathe ?  Does it have an indexing arbor on the head stock ?  If so,  make sure that it is not in a locked position.    Post some pictures if possible.

   Work Safe,  Count to 10 when your done for the day !!

   Bruce S. 

    

3. 
   PeteBradley | Dec 03, 2006 06:26pm | #3

   I agree with Bruce. Unless it's got a *lot* of rust on it, it's unlikely that the bearings are frozen. Look for some kind of locking mechanism. If the lathe is some monster with babbitt bearings, it may be that it just needs more oomph to turn it. I always recommend the forum at owwm.org for experts on questions like these.

   Pete

4. 
   lare | Dec 03, 2006 07:17pm | #4

   After you make sure it's not some sort of mechanical lock holding things in place, try "Liquid Wrench" or a similar brand of penetrating oil. Use it liberally and give it lots of time to work. If things are really that rusted together you'll end up replacing bearings. As was already suggested heat will help also.

5. 
   Steinmetz | Dec 03, 2006 07:54pm | #5

   Wood lathe? Metal lathe? Index pin engaged? Threading dial jammed?
   Change gears jammed? Humid means damp. Damp means rust. Heirloom means
   handle with care.Steinmetz

6. 
   mufti | Dec 03, 2006 08:04pm | #6

                The pulleys may be, probably are, alloy so beware of heat in excess. It may be a case of the headstock being the cathode and the pulleys the anode (as in a battery), in which case the best course to follow may be to dismantle the headstock and replace the pulleys and bearings. This is not rusting in the usual sense.

   This type of corrosion occures in just the circumstance you mention, dry surroundings and humid air. If the bearings are bronze (rather than ball races) the reaction is in the opposite direction but extreme, the shaft corrodes. Ordinarily use and regular lubrication keeps the corrosion at bay, but for long term storage the only safeguard is to separate the reactive metals.

   
   

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   Edited 12/3/2006 12:18 pm ET by mufti

1. 
   Woodmann | Dec 04, 2006 07:59am | #7

   Check out the shop web site on owwm.com . These folks will give you direct info on removing bearings on old woodworking machine.  They have a vast ammount of knowledge in restoring 100 years  plus older machines.  A very friendly group of people.

    

   Tom