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I think the hardest thing for the novice woodworker is trying to decide
which of the zillion products to choose and then how to apply it.
This finish is guaranteed to be easy to apply, no drips, easy to sand,
easy to repair and renew. No fancy brushes or spray equipment.
The beauty of a hand rubbed oil finish and the durability of a varnish.
I applied six coats to an ash dining table used by a family of four daily
and it was five years before the client called for the formula to renew
the finish.
Mix-
25% pure tung oil, 25% spar varnish, 50% paint thinner, Japan drier
as necessary
I usually only mix enough for the project at hand. For example for a
coffee table I would mix about 2 cups of this finish and then ADD A
TEASPOON of JAPAN DRIER. The reason for only mixing what you
need is the japan drier will cause the finish to solidify even in a
closed container within the week.
For the first coat apply liberally with a rag, wiping on and off with the
same rag. Let dry two to three hours and sand lightly with a foam
sanding pad or grey scotchbrite pads. I apply three coats minimum
to legs, carcasses, etc. and six coats to tops or high use areas.
The foam sanding pad will not clog like sandpaper and wet sanding
or buffing is not really necessary. This finish will dry to touch in ten to
twenty minutes which doesn’t allow much time for dust to settle in the
wet finish. For a really smooth final finish sand lightly with 600 grit
and wipe with the grain with a rag slightly dampened with paint
thinner. This will “melt” the sanding scratches and act as a tack
cloth.
Be careful disposing of rags……..
Replies
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Second try to attach picture of bench, Joinery by Clark Dennell,
design and finishing by Don Kondra.
NOTE: On my iMac clicking on the picture downloads it to my
desktop. ???? Sorry for the inconvenience.
*Don, that sounds like a nice recipe. In essence I think it is very similar to many of the Danish oil and other penetrating oil finishes that one can buy. Can you comment on the performance of your finish vs. say Watco or other prepackaged formulations. I'd appreciate it if you would mention what brand names you use in your mixture as well.Thanks..........
*It may be applied similarily but with the varnish added it builds much more quickly and doesn't bleed like Watco. Also the Danish and Watco oils do not like water while varnish doesn't mind at all under normal conditions. The tung oil I use is Minwax and the spar varnish is Canadian Tire. The japan drier should be available at any paint store.
*Don, the Minwax "Tung Oil Finish" is an oil/varnish mixture that contains no real tung oil. It is a mixture of varnish, linseed oil and mineral spirits. In fact, the Minwax is very similar to Watco which is also a oil/varnish mixture. If a tung oil product does not say 100% or "pure" it contains no real tung oil.That said, your recipe could very well be duplicated by mixing spar varnish, linseed oil and mineral spirits is equal parts. For more info go here and read "Linseed vs Tung Oil" and "Slick Marketing" : http://members.home.net/jdkx2/links.htm
*Woops Howard, in my rush grabbed the wrong can. The 100% Pure Tung Oil comes from Lee Valley. Don
*I think what Don has made is a very "long oil" finish, the spar varnish already being a long oil varnish. Consequently it will be an extremely flexible and impervious (to water, alcohol) finish. I am assuming that the spar varnish is NOT poly also. I have used Howard A.'s finish (with linseed) often and without the Japan drier. It already dries quickly enough. It is a wonderful finish in the 50/50 genre that is indeed easy to apply and extremely durable.
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