I’d like some advice regarding flush trimming laminate with a flush trim bit. Specifically, I’m having trouble with flushing up the horizontal surface of a counter that I built. I had no problem edge banding the counter with the vertical pieces but when I try to flush trim the top I wind up “burning” the vertical edge pieces with the router bit.
I’m using a brand new Freud 1/2″ shank flush rim bit, so I suspect that it’s a problem with my technique. Does anyone have some tips or advice to share that might get me on the right track?
Thanks in advance,
Solan
Replies
A common problem - What I do is to trim the pieces in two steps, using an actual trim router to do it. I attach a bearing guide to my trim router, and set the guide to give the bit about an 1/16th of an inch offset, or I just use a slighlty smaller bit than the bearing on my guide.
If you choose the offset way of doing it, you must remain awaer of router orientiation - Changing the router's position will change your offset, making it smaller, or even changing it to a protrusion, so just keep that in mind.
Since the bearing on the guide doesn't spin at router speed, there's no burning to worry about. Take your time and get your cut close.
After that, remove the guide, and switch to a standard flush trim bit, and flush the remaining 1/16" overhang in a quick pass - The more time you spend with a flush trim bit, the more heat will be generated, and you end up burning
Also, the plastic laminate will leave sharp edges - You can use dedicated bits such as Amana's "No file" bit, that will flush and ease the sharp edge in one pass, or you can just knock down the edge with a pass from a file or some 150 grit sand paper
Hope this helps!
Gregory Paolini
http://www.GregoryPaolini.com
Custom Furniture, Cabinetry, and Woodworking Instruction
Could your bearing be seizing up? Have you lubed it?
Frosty
"I sometimes think we consider the good fortune of the early bird and overlook the bad fortune of the early worm." FDR - 1922
Keep the excess laminate overhang to a minimum, set the bit so it is only cutting about 1/8" deeper than the LP thickness, use a Euro style bit that has a square nylon bearing.
Excess overhang will load up the bit and bearing with glue, the bearing may seize. Setting it too deep can result in cutting the edge banding, especially if it's just a touch out of square. The square nylon bearings house a round bearing, even if the bearing seizes or stalls, it's not contacting the work. With a regular bearing, make sure it is clean and lubed. You can smear the edge band with Vassalene. There are other types of trim bits that are used in a special laminate router. These can have a separate bearing mounted on the router plate but I don't think that's what you are using.
Beat it to fit / Paint it to match
solan , As has been said the contact cement and laminate chips can wad around the bit / bearing and cause burning .
Make sure the bit extends below the horizontal surface a ways also , you can also spray either a silicone spray or something like dry lube as a thin lubricating film sprayed on the surface the bearing will ride on .
A good Formica file is a must , they are your friend .
regards dusty , boxmaker
Guys thanks for the replies. When I took a closer look at the counter, the flush trim bit is actually cutting into the vertical edge pieces at certain points. Maybe it's because the counter is a little out of square...? How would I compensate for that?
I like the idea of getting the laminate about a 1/16" flush and filing the rest. What do you think?
Thanks,
Solan
Glue getting into the bearing, as stated above, is probably the major cause of the burning. What may also help is routing at a lower speed and pressing the bearing harder against the edge.It's counter-intuitive but the increased pressure will slow down the bearing.However your first step needs to be to ensure that the bearing spins freely.
Solan,
!/16" flush is a lot to file although your concept will work. Try running two strips of masking tape ( double layer, one strip on top of the other) the length of the edge where the bearing will ride. This will give you enough of a standoff to keep the cutting edge of the bit off the finished side, then finish off with file.
Contrary to what Dave said though only IMO I would not press hard on the bearing , sounds like you are doing that already. It is hard to control the trimmer when you grip it too hard making it easy to tip into the finished work , once again only my opinion. Bits must be sharp and bearings free from binding. If there is and residual glue on the side where the bearing rides clean off with some solvent before trimming.
Tom
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