Replies

1. 
   RonK | Jul 07, 2006 04:31am | #1

   I have had success using just spraying fairly hot water on both sides of the veneerand then layering the veneer between newprint and clamping it between a couple sheets of MDF. You should change the newsprint in a couple of hours. If you decide to use old newpaper don't use any pages with color. Even the black and white pages can transfer and image to the veneer though it seems to remove fairly easily. I switched to using  blank newsprint I got from a local Staples to eliminate this possibility. Most of the veneering I have done has not been with large sheets so it's possible a often quoted mixture of water, glycerin amd glue will work better but I have never needed to use it myself.

2. 
   trackersoft | Jul 07, 2006 05:40pm | #2

   I have used the Pro-Glue Veneer Softener from Woodcraft. Spray lightly on both sides and then put the Veneer between plywood in the Vacuum Press (I bought the Rockler large manual vac press and for $50 it works great! Item 20691 on the web). The next morning it is FLAT.

3. 
   RMillard | Jul 07, 2006 05:55pm | #3

   I flatten and stabilize burls and crotches with a thin coat of hot hide glue. The glue should be diluted about one part glue to four parts water, from standard hide glue. The glue will make even the most brittle veneer pliable. I wrap the veneer in plastic food wrap and press it between boards. I let the veneer out a couple of times a day for a few minutes at a time, over the course of 4-7 days. While this may not meet your requirements of the least complications, it is very effective, and hide glue will not interfere with any finish. I veneer with only hide glue, so I can't say how this flattening/stabilizing method would work with other glues, for bonding the veneer, but I doubt it would be compatible.

   Rob Millard

   http://www.americanfederalperiod.com

    

   
   

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   Edited 7/8/2006 7:05 am ET by RMillard

1. 
   mapleman | Jul 09, 2006 08:22pm | #8

   Rob,

   Holy smokes! Judging from your advice here on knots, I assumed you were a fairly accomplished woodworker, but after seeing your website, I'm completely blown away! Very, very nice work. I'd love to talk to you about making sawn banding sometime, the bandings and inlys on your furniture are pristine. You are quite an accomplished furnituremaker - Kudos.

   Lee

1. 
   RMillard | Jul 10, 2006 03:33am | #9

   Lee,

   Thanks, for your comments on the furniture I make. I'm happy to help in any way I can with questions you have about the inlays. On the website, if you click on "detailed construction articles" a photo will come up of a tea chest I made, and I describe some inlay techniques in the accompanying article.

   Rob Millard

4. 
   DonStephan | Jul 08, 2006 04:13am | #4

   When veneer has needed flattening I have used the formula given a number of times on the veneering forum at http://www.vacupress.com.

   I always "clamped" the wetted veneer using cauls and hand clamps, and the last experience was with olive ash burl that was attached using a hot iron and PVA glue.  I changed paper religiously for 4 days, until the paper stopped showing moisture wrinkling, and kept the veneer under a caul until I was ready to tape seams and apply.  As soon as I removed from under the caul the veneer would start wrinkling again, but I forged ahead valiantly.  Of course, the PVA added moisture to the veneer and the hot iron - yep, next day half the seams opened.  After a couple exchanges with Darryl Keil at Vacuum Pressing we decided my veneer had never fully dried back to moisture level before applying the flattening solution.  He always had "clamped" wetted veneer in a vacuum bag, which probably helps dry the veneer, and the humidity level in my workshop may have been higher.  As a result I purchased a humidity gauge in the workshop which I check daily, a dehumidifier, and a moisture meter that I will use before and after whenever I have to flatten veneer in the future.

   Good luck.

5. 
   dwyer | Jul 08, 2006 05:45am | #5

   Take a look at these David Marks videos showing his veneer methods.
   http://www.diynetwork.com/webdiy/channels/woodworking/

1. 
   hdgis1 | Jul 08, 2006 07:03am | #6

   Ive seen glue used as an ingredient in most solutions and am wondering exactly what it does?

6. 
   WillieS | Jul 08, 2006 10:36pm | #7

   A few things to keep in mind:
   -a vacuum pres will flatten veneer, but it will not pull the
   moisture out of it. So once you flatten it with the press, you still
   need to give it time to dry, preferbly with some weight on it to keep
   it flat.
   -most any of the veneer solutions will work well in helping to flatten out
   crotch veneer. when pressing it helps to place windowscreen(the cheap black stuff
   , that you get at the harware store (not the metal kind)) betwen the veneer
   and what ever paper you use to absorb moisture, this prevents any glue in the solution from binding the paper to the veneer.
   - Avoid any solution
   with silicion or silica in it (they will destroy a finish). Also be aware that certain
   solutions have alcholol in them that can cause certain highly colored veneers (paduak,
   emberwood, tulipwood, etc.) to loose some of their intensity as the alcohol carries out the colorants. This shouldn't be a problem with mohaganey.