Flattening a grinding wheel is one thing
After trying a single point diamond unit to flatten my medium speed grinder, I opted for the flat diamond dresser. But, here is the problem: how do I produce a flat surface that is parallel to my tool rest. I try to adjust the rest to accomidate the just surfaced wheel, but have to do it again on the next dressing. Any ancient secrets out there? Thanks
Greg Alexander
Replies
Greg, not sure that I understand the problem, but it does sound as though you are whacking off far too much with the dresser-all that is required is a light even application , the dresser being on the tool rest. If you bring the tool rest almost into contact with the wheel then dress more on the "near" side....
Well, when using the "T" shaped dresser, or even the single point diamond dresser, the wheel face doesn't always "true up" to slot on the tool rest. This results in the chisels grinding on one edge of the wheel and not the other. Maybe I'm not able to explain it precisely. Thank you for your help.
Greg Alexander
Greg, If the diamond tipped dresser has a round or square shaft, you might want to fit a metal collar which has a setscrew along the shaft
This 'donut' shaped accessory can be adjusted to 'ride' the tool rest and when properly adjusted and secured (With the screw) , create a square and parallel face to the wheel.
It's a good idea to first check and adjust the tool rest to present it's forward (Nearest to you) edge exactly square to the wheel's flat circular side. This MAY require some filing or grinding.
Also ,the rest's top section should be level and square to the wheels
When first attempting to dress the wheel,traverse the collar along the tool rest with it's point just below the wheel's center line.
Also align the dresser straight ahead toward the wheel.
Apply chalk lightly to the running wheel before starting
When all the chalk is gone, it is 'true'
Traverse the point starting short of the left edge and continue evenly across and past the right edge then backtrack from right to left'
So as NOT to waste material and not to constantly adjust the tool, I first place a few thin washers 'Shim' forward of the collar
If after the first path, and you'you haved stopped the wheel,
some chalk still shows,remove ONE washer and traverse again.
These 'shaft collars' can be bought in any hardware store
If the dresser has a wider head than the shaft, Buy a 'split' collar to fi t the shaft It has two set screws.
Good luck Steinmetz.
Edited 4/1/2006 3:27 am ET by Steinmetz
Edited 4/1/2006 3:32 am ET by Steinmetz
It's funny when something is presented, and you say to yourself: Now why didn't I think of that? I have been using my trusty fingers to guide the dresser back and forth, thinking there must be a better way to do this. Thank you for opening my eyes. I especially like the idea of adding the shims for the small incremental steps. If you don't mind me asking, what kind of tool rest do you use? Is it a shop made, store bought or the original mfgs? I bought the VERITAS unit. but find that when I adjust for different angles of grind the rest goes out of adjustment for being parallel to the face of the wheel... I guess I can't have it all. Thanks again for your help.
Greg Alexander
Greg,If the rests ore removable (Not riveted) I would paint them with Dykem Blue or magic marker, and use a small square and scribe to mark off a line perpendicular to the circular face of the wheel (6")That small slice of the edge should be filed off
If it's riveted in olace, perhaps you could add a rectangular 1/8" metal plate to the existing rest
Clamp with a visegrip and drill two #30 holes for countersunk pop rivets? My grinder is/was a Baldor( Best in the west!)Most of my machine shop equipment I sold when I retired 2000
Some in storage at my son's shop Good luck, Ed from CTEdited 4/2/2006 4:38 pm ET by Steinmetz
Edited 4/5/2006 1:26 am ET by Steinmetz
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