Replies

1. 
   JohnWW | Jun 26, 2003 10:17pm | #1

   Call Forrest Blades (1-800-733-7111) they'll custom grind a blade to the pattern you want, I believe for the price of the same blade with a stock tooth pattern. 

   For cross grain work, the blade will need some kind of bevel teeth followed by a raker which is a standard pattern, except that the bevel teeth normally are taller than the raker which leaves small grooves on the bottom of the cut.  Perhaps a blade with the rakers as tall as the cutters would work without to much tearing.

   John W.

2. 
   loveelurouters | Jun 26, 2003 11:13pm | #2

   I have a 36 tooth Freud General Purpose blade that I use for the similar purposes. It was inexpensive and works well.

   I you have an older blade you like but it needs to be sharpened, you can request that your local sharpening shop grind the blade flat on the top.

3. 
   HowardAcheson | Jun 27, 2003 12:36am | #3

   Freud's full kerf 24 tooth rip blade is a flat kerf design.

4. 
   sharpologist | Jun 27, 2003 03:29am | #4

   Since I'm a Sharpologist, I have the luxury of customizing my own blades.On an avg. 50 tooth combo blade the raker is .007-.010 lower than the alternate bevel teeth.If you have one and it needs sharpening,ask your saw shop to make the raker only .001-.002 lower.And it does need to be lower or it will affect the cut(tearing) out.

   Texas Sharpologist

5. 
   tufenhundel | Jun 27, 2003 08:40am | #5

   Tryan:

   Check this blade out: http://in-lineindustries.com/saw_blade.html

   It is not cheap.  I've been using one for a while, I also have a Forest WWII.  To me, the In-Line blade is just as good.  To the eye, the tooth geometry is identical to the WWII, but, there is a raker (ATBR).  So it cuts just as well as a WWII, but with a flat bottomed kerf. 

6. 
   ChippingWood | Jun 27, 2003 07:18pm | #6

   Tryan-

   I do a lot of the same... and just got my Forrest WWII FTG blade delievered last week. All I can tell you is "Wow". Cross grain on white oak left a cut so nice it felt sanded. I can't even begin to count the amount of tenons I've cut in the last week... and it is excellent. I got it on-line at...

   http://www.forrestblades.com/woodworker_2.htm

   Ordered over the phone, anyway, and they were great to talk to. This might sound a little sad- but given the amount of tenon work I do I'm going to buying another one when it comes time to send it back for sharpening. The model number is W21001.

   In short I would give it a 9.8 outta 10. Hope that helps!

   PS- I also got their zero clearance insert, cuz' it was cheap and figured I would have one just for this blade. Very, very nice.

1. 
   DaveHeinlein | Jun 28, 2003 12:55am | #7

   I use my dado blades to cut tenons. It works perfectly well with a quality set, and the whole cheek is removed in one or two passes using a stop set up on the miter gage fence.