Replies

1. 
   Floss | Nov 14, 2009 05:40pm | #1

   It really depends on how well the drawer front fits its opening. If the fit is snug then proud pins will make the box less in width so that you may not need to plane the whole drawer side, just the pins.

   I usually try for a flush fit as the front determines how the whole drawer will go into the opening.

   When I glue up these types of drawers I use hide glue and knock the drawer together and then slide it into its opening until the glue sets. Then you know the front will fit the opening all the way around.

   F.

2. 
   joinerswork | Nov 14, 2009 11:48pm | #2

   jj,

   My standard procedure for lipped drawers is to cut the lip on the drawer front so that the height of the drawer has enough slop to allow for seasonal swelling, the length of the drawer is just a slip-fit in the opening.  In cutting the dovetail pins, I make their length 1/32" more than the thickness of the drawer sides (my usual drawer side stock is 1/2").  So, when the assembled drawer is cleaned up, paring the pins flush to the sides makes the length of the drawer 1/16" less than the opening.  Typically, I make the drawer back length 1/16" less than the opening, which makes the drawer itself slightly tapered from front to back.  This makes for a free moving drawer that needs little further fitting to the case (if the case itself is square)- one finger on either corner of the drawer front will push it closed.

   For marking out drawer dovetails, I made a task specific marking guage that has a shallow enough fence to ride the end of the drawer front without hitting the lip, with a scribe a strong 1/2" from the fence. Works for both lipped and flush drawers' fronts and backs. 

   Ray 

1. 
   jjjjj | Nov 15, 2009 04:39am | #3

   Thanks for the responses. With regard to the lower lip, most plans call for an abbreviated rabbet here, but some period makers apparently only lipped the drawers on 3 sides. What are your thoughts on this? Thanks. John

1. 
   mikeddd | Nov 15, 2009 07:15am | #4

   JJJJ;

    I also build mine like Ray said he builds his making the front fit tight before dovetailing and then plane the pins off after glue up. I also build the drawer slightly trapezoid, same I try and get the back about 1/16" shorter than the front of the drawer, I've built a few Shaker style pieces and always just lipped the sides and top not the bottom, then router a profile on all four sides. Good luck and have a great day.

   Mike

3. 
   joinerswork | Nov 16, 2009 04:02am | #5

   jj,

   I haven't seen many period drawer fronts lipped on all four sides.  The great majority are flush with the edges of the drawer sides on the bottom, although they are molded on all four sides, of course. 

   This construction makes planing the drawer sides' edges when fitting the drawers (to eliminate the drawer rocking on the bearers)  easier.  In addition, it makes set-up to cut the groove for the bottom the same for sides and front, also helps when laying out dovetails, just line up the bottom edges of the front and side, no need to use a slip of thin stock in the grooves themselves to line things up.

   Ray

1. 
   9619 | Nov 16, 2009 08:38pm | #6

   Ray,
   Help me get this straight. You make the case first and then make the drawer to fit???? I have always done it the other way. But upon thinking about it, I believe I will try your way.
   MelMeasure your output in smiles per board foot. 

1. 
   joinerswork | Nov 16, 2009 08:55pm | #7

   Mel,

   One of the shops I worked in, the boss told the story about his dad buying a passel of old drawers on an antique buying trip.  He brought them back to the shop, built tables around them, and sold them as "90% restorations"!

   Ray

1. 
   9619 | Nov 16, 2009 10:00pm | #8

   Ray,Opportunities. One must be able to recognize opportunities, and to take advantage of them. That is what creativity is all about.
   I love that story.
   Mel
   Measure your output in smiles per board foot.