Replies

1. 
   forestgirl | May 22, 2004 06:23pm | #1

   Rez, shellac is the easiest finish to remove -- put away your sander and get some denatured alcohol at the hardware store.  No chance of a "whoopsie" with that technique.

   forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)
   Another proud member of the  "I Rocked With ToolDoc Club" .... :>) 

1. 
   Rezberg | May 23, 2004 08:02am | #2

   In regards to finishing with oil I am still looking for the oil+varnish furmula. (Teak oil). I would love a small explanation about the benefit of such a formula as opposed to using only the oil. Looking forward.

1. 
   BG | May 23, 2004 02:26pm | #3

   Rezberg,

   My suggestion would be to back up a bit and get a better understanding of what your asking...so you can hear the solutions being offered.  I'm a relative newbie also, and I have found myself confused by recommendations because I did not understand the context.   Remember, building or making the piece is only 50% of the job...

   It helps me to understand there are four parts (or Stages)to the finishing process; staining, sealing, finishing and polishing.  There are also numerous combinations of processes to acheive the results you seek....but you can't necessarily plop in a new element into the process without changing other elements in the process.

   So as FG said, you can strip the shellac, put on blond shellac, or put on oil first and then blond shellac....or switch to Watco and build an oil finish....or lots of other options....varnish, lacquer, etc.

   Edited 5/23/2004 8:17 am ET by BG

1. 
   Dave45 | May 23, 2004 03:46pm | #4

   Another factor in getting the finish you want is lighting.  I work in my garage shop which has flourescent lighting and/or lots of sunlight if the door is up.  When I make samples, I have to take them inside to see what they'll really look like.

   It's also a good idea to make fairly large samples.  Using small cutoffs can fake you out.

2. 
   HowardAcheson | May 23, 2004 04:44pm | #5

   Teak oil, tung oil finish and Danish oil are all basicly oil/varnish mixtures. They are mixtures of varnish, boiled linseed oil and mineral spirits. Most contain no real tung oil inspite of their name. The exact mixtures are proprietary but 1/3, 1/3, and 1/3 will get you real close. Some manufacturers add a dollop of drier to speed up the drying. This same mixture is frequently also called "Danish Oil" because it gives a finish that resembles the finish used on much of the "danish style" teak furniture imported in the 50's and 60's. "Teak Oils" may contain a little wax and UV inhibitors to make it more long lasting in a marine environment. All oil/varnish mixtures closely mimics a true oil finish but the addition of the varnish resins gives it more durability and protection.

   Here are some oil/varnish mixtures:(*)

   Deft Danish Oil

   General Finishes' Sealacell

   Behlen Danish Oil

   Maloof Finish

   Behr Scandinavian Tung Oil Finish

   Minwax Tung Oil Finish

   Minwax Antique Oil Finish

   Velvit Oil

   Watco Danish Oil

   McCloskey Tung Oil Finish (contains pure tung oil, not linseed oil)

   (*) Courtesy Bob Flexner and some personal information.

   True oils like pure tung oil and boiled linseed oil make poor finishes. They do not inhibit water or water vapor, provide no scuff or abrasion resistance and require frequent reapplication to maintain their appearence. True oils are best relegated to coloring the wood. By adding a resin (vanish) to the oil, some amount of protective qualities are imparted. But, the finish still looks like an "oil" finish.

   Howie.........