Replies

1. 
   Rich14 | Mar 28, 2007 12:03am | #1

   Dundee,

   No finish will protect the wood surface from the damage you can cause by writing without a pad under the writing materials. You really need to use a desk pad for that. Never write directly on a wood surface. You can easily permanently emboss the writing right into the wood surface.

   What experience do you have finishing wood and teak, specifically? The choices of a finish include oil/varnish finishes, varnish, shellac or lacquer. You also may need to use a pore filler, since you mention need to fill up all the 'voids," although I'm not sure you really need to do that.

   I assume you applied "boiled" linseed oil to the wood. If not, what kind of oil did you use?

   By far, the easiest finish to apply is an oil/varnish, although that may not provide all the protection you'll need. But first, we need to know what your previous experience is with applying any kind of finish.

   Rich

1. 
   DundeeDog | Mar 28, 2007 07:14pm | #2

   Was out of my office for most of yesterday afternoon and so just got your response. Thanks. I can't say that I have a lot of experience finishing. I'm a weekend warrior with a pretty nice shop and do good enough work that many neighbors have approached me to build stuff for them but the bottom line is I'm self taught........and we all know how dangerous that can be. So far I have used minwax, urethanes, oils and stains for finishes. Already on this surface I have put teak oil in several coats with sanding in between each. The last time I used a 600 grit and so the surface right now looks and feels great! If I thought that this would protect it from spilt coffee or ketchup, etc. I wouldn't so anything additional. The wood is actually very tight with few "voids". I was thinking of some kind of finish that I could put on in several coats with sanding in between each coat. I want to protect the wood first and foremost and second my thought was to make a smooth finish upon which one could write. I honestly didn't think about being able to possible emboss the wood by writing on it. One thing I don't want is the wood to look as though it has a "plastic" finish to it.

1. 
   SteveSchoene | Mar 28, 2007 07:39pm | #3

   What brand of Teak Oil is it?  Most are oil/varnish blends--pretty much similar to ordinary Watco.  You will get a moderate degree of protection from liquids--more than just linseed oil itself (which is approximately none) but a lot less than a straight varnish.  The problem is that protection comes from thickness, so if protection from water is the main criteria you need to use a varnish that will build a film on the surface.  Traditional resin varnishes look less "plastic" than polyurethane varnish, but no film finish will look as "natural" as a oil/varnish in-the-wood finish. 

   A lot of the time I think we exaggerate the need for "protection" and find that for normal usage the best thing to do is to choose a finish that has the look you like.  Spilling a cup of coffee won't hurt anything on an oil/varnish finish if you wipe it up.  What's the chance you don't notice the spill or you don't wipe it up until the next day.  Coasters are never a bad idea, of course. 

2. 
   Rich14 | Mar 28, 2007 08:49pm | #4

   Just to repeat Steve's question - what brand of "teak oil" did you use?

   If it's one of the oil/varnish mixtures we all know and hate, er, I mean love . . . I think you could just go ahead and apply another coat or 2, using steel wool as the applicator, burnishing the existing finish which is on/in the wood, polymerizing as we speak. Burnish on, wipe off.

   If the "oil" you are using is just oil (in all probability, linseed, no matter what the name implies), that's not enough protection at all.

   An oil/varnish will look very nice on teak and give you protection against any reasonable use of the desk. Anything spilled will not cause damage if wiped up quickly and completely. However, it will probably need to be re-applied periodically, which is easy enough to do.

   Again, even a heavy varnish top coat is not enough protection against using the desk for writing without a desk pad. Do so at your own risk of seeing the wood embossed with your penmanship.

   Edited 3/28/2007 1:50 pm ET by Rich14

1. 
   DundeeDog | Mar 28, 2007 10:33pm | #5

   I honestly don't know what the brand was. I'll check it tonight and get back to you guys tomorrow. Thanks for the input.

1. 
   DundeeDog | Mar 29, 2007 10:34pm | #6

   The teak oil was "Watco Teak Oil Finish". In looking over the can I can not find the contents anywhere. The closests I came was under the title "contains" it said "Mineral Spirits"............So I'm pretty sure that it is a very old receipt that has been passed down for many generations and no one is allowed to divulge what is in it.

2. 
   SteveSchoene | Mar 29, 2007 11:18pm | #7

   It is an oil/varnish mix with, according to Bob Flexner, no particular properties that make it a superior finish for teak or other oily woods.  It's almost the same as the regular Watco Danish Oil marketed by the same company.  I would second Rich's advise.  Put on another coat or two, wiping off excess.  This is largely to ensure an even penetration of the finish.  You should not be trying to build a coating with the oil/varnish mix--it is much too soft for that. 

    

    

   Edited 3/29/2007 4:22 pm ET by SteveSchoene

3. 
   DundeeDog | Mar 29, 2007 11:53pm | #8

   Thanks for the info. I've been reading some of the other finishing conversations and one thing that caught my eye is the combination of mixing oil and wax thru the use of a double boiler and after the final coat you buff it. Could this kind of finish now be applied or are things already pretty much "set in stone" since it has an oil/varnish combination already applied? If it is possible to apply the oil/wax finish and that is a good finish for this kind of surface, what kind of oil and what kind of wax should be used and in what ratios?

4. 
   Rich14 | Mar 30, 2007 12:09am | #9

   Oil/varnish, oil/varnish/wax combinations are as varied and numerous as the many people who post them.

   Yes, you could make up a mixture of the oil/varnish you are using and wax. Or you could just apply another few coats of the oil/varnish, let it harden for a few days, then apply a coat of paste wax and buff that out. Same final result.

   BTW, buffing out a paste wax coat needs a lambs wool buffer in a power drill (or equivalent). The buffing action momentarily melts the wax, which instantly re-solidifies in the gloss configuration. You can't generate the heat needed with hand buffing. It looks very nice, but is a finish that needs periodic renewing, depending on the amount of use the surface gets.

   Rich

5. 
   DundeeDog | Mar 30, 2007 12:19am | #10

   You didn't address the kind of wax that should be used if you use the oil/varnish/wax combination. Where do you find this wax.......hardware store?

6. 
   Rich14 | Mar 30, 2007 12:56am | #11

   Why does everyone think all that's needed for a successful finish formula is to whomp up some witch's brew of various solvents, oils and waxes to slather on some poor unsuspecting sample of wood, to give a super protective, deep, glowing surface, without the sightest bit of effort?

   The double boiler method always seems to lend some magical importance to the brew. Don't forget eye of newt.

   *sigh*

   Google carnauba wax.

   Rich

7. 
   DundeeDog | Mar 30, 2007 05:25pm | #14

   I'm sorry I offended you with my questions but you must remember that we can't all be as knowledgeable as you. I had asked the question to get some insite on finishing sense I don't have much experience along that line. I had thought that that was the purpose of this section of this web site........being able to take advantage of other woodworkers experience to become more knowledgeable in the field of wood working. My mistake.

8. 
   Rich14 | Mar 30, 2007 05:38pm | #15

   Wow. Would you like some cheese with that whine?

9. 
   SteveSchoene | Mar 30, 2007 07:59am | #12

   You can do it, but I don't see any particular reason why that would be better than just continuing with the oil/varnish.  A lot of hassle for very little benefit, if any.  I wouldn't be surprised if the mixture with wax added proved to be less durable than the oil/varnish by itself. 

10. 
    DundeeDog | Mar 30, 2007 05:12pm | #13

    Thanks Steve. You've been very helpful.