Replies

1. 
   SteveSchoene | Apr 25, 2008 06:13pm | #1

   What I have done with a pair of teak benches that I made is nothing.  Teak weathers quite nicely to a very attractive silver grey.  All that needs doing then is a scrubbing a time or two each year. 

   I would coat the ground contact surfaces with epoxy to prevent the legs from absorbing water from the ground. 

1. 
   sleepydad | Apr 25, 2008 06:49pm | #4

   Yes I know but I'm going to apply the "my wife says so" thing.<!----><!----><!---->

   If I keep it covered when not in use and we also have the large umbrella over the table and chairs it will help extend the life of the finish so hopefully it will not need re-finishing all that often.<!----><!---->

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2. 
   Quickstep | Apr 25, 2008 06:31pm | #2

   Sunlight is the enemy here. Penofin is a fine finish and provides UV protection, but the oil in it may attract airborne pollutants if you live in or near an urban area. Another product called Teak Wonder is silicone based and prodcues a matte finish like oil, but doesn't attract airborne dirt and crud like an oil based will. Teak Wonder's down side is that because it contains silicone, switching to a varnish finish later will be problematic. While this may sound strange, your best bet is to make covers for your furniture.

1. 
   sleepydad | Apr 25, 2008 06:43pm | #3

   I will cover it once I finish it.  <!----><!----><!---->

   I have never heard anybody say oil based finishes attract airborne pollutants?    Where did you get that?  I'm a little skeptical; sorry this is the internet you know.<!----><!---->

   I learn new things everyday so I might not be surprised to learn something new about exterior oil based finishes?<!----><!---->

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1. 
   Quickstep | Apr 27, 2008 01:32am | #11

   I originally read about the oil attracting airborne pollutants in a book on boat maintenence. At the time I was using teak oil on the teak on my boat and what I read seemed true; my teak was black by mid summer after a spring re-finishing. After switching to teak wonder, I ceased having the problem. If you plan to cover the furniture, teak needs no finish for protection unless you want finish to acheive a certain look. If covered, a periodic washing will bring back the golden-brown color.

   If you decide to go the varnish route, a brand called Epifanes has a two part varnish that performs well on teak. It wins all the comparison tests in the boat mags.

1. 
   sleepydad | Apr 27, 2008 02:08am | #12

   After reading a lot about teak oil... it looks like there are 3 basic recipes for teak oil. Mineral oil or mineral oil with some kind of wax. neither of these cure or dry.  the last one is linseed oil and some type of varnish.  this cures but I've have read it can encourage mold? the mold feeds off something in the linseed oil I guess.  I can't see why this type of finish would be better for teak?  it's just a wiping varnish.  I think surface prep is way more important.<!----><!----><!---->

   I'm guessing the black you encountered was mold?<!----><!---->

   anyway I think I have decided to go the varnish way.  it's so confusing; the marketing is all downright lies.  you have try to get the ingredients and then try to figure out what the heck stuff is really made of.  It should be so much easier.<!----><!---->

   It seem to come down to this: everybody wants your money and in the finishing world they will tell you anything to get it.<!----><!---->

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1. 
   Rich14 | Apr 27, 2008 06:18am | #13

   sleepy,The "lies" in the finishing world all have to do with oil finishes and oil/varnish mixes."Lie" 1. Finish manufacturers call either of above "tung oil finish" or "tung oil" no matter how much or how little real tung oil is in the product, even if there is none. This is based, apparently, on the fact that the product, in its cured state resembles the finish produced by tung oil itself when fully polymerized on the wood."Lie" 2. There is no such thing as "teak oil." Tthe only thing that the term refers to is that there is some kind of oil in the product and that the manufacturer is selling it as something he's encouraging the customer to use on teak. Such products are just oil/varnish mixtures and have no particular reason to be used on teak, other than the manufacturer wants you to think so. They will polymerize on any wood (more or less) and will give very little, if any, real protection, compared to a properly applied vanish film.You'll never go wrong using a real varnish and adequate techniques to apply it that lay down a sufficient film to protect the wood. The industry generally doesn't engage in the misleading labeling and implications of varnish products as it does about oils and oil/varnish mixtures.Rich

3. 
   JiminFla | Apr 25, 2008 10:31pm | #5

   Sleepy,

   I've used teak oil and it gives a great look to the wood, but it needs to be reapplied once or twice a year to maintain the finish.  It's easy to apply...just put it on, let it soak in and wipe off what's left.

   Jim

1. 
   sleepydad | Apr 25, 2008 10:57pm | #6

   does teak oil "dry"?

   or does it just help repel moisure?  I have been reading about it but I'm not sure about it.

1. 
   JiminFla | Apr 25, 2008 11:42pm | #7

   Teak oil gives the wood a silky feel after it's applied, but it is not wet to the touch. Teak oil penetrates the wood and it brings out the grain and gives it a finished look.  As the oil slowly evaporates, the wood begins to lighten in color and you know it's time to apply another coat.  There are a number of types of teak oil, from thin ones to heavier ones.  The thinner ones are easier to apply, but must be applied more often.  I have found that the thin ones work fine.  Briwax makes a good one, but there are many to choose from. 

   Jim

1. 
   SteveSchoene | Apr 25, 2008 11:52pm | #8

   Teak oil is generally just an oil/varnish mix, and typically with no particular properties relative to teak as an oily wood.  Teak oil with linseed oil is potentially a problem since mildew loves linseed oil--rather like dessert.  That's not an issue for exterior boat teak since it gets full sun, but foir yard teak that does get shade it could be a problem. 

4. 
   sapwood | Apr 25, 2008 11:55pm | #9

   My father took great care of the teak trim on his yacht. He maintained the only way to get the finish (marine varnish) to stick was to first apply an initial coat of epoxy primer. This needs to be thin so that it soaks in. He used Smith brand, I think. Then when the epoxy is still just tacky you apply a thinned coat of the varnish. Then when that's dry you can add further coats of varnish. Now I'm going to suggest that you consult with some boat making/maintaining forums for further advice. Teak, boats, salt water, sun, and lots of elbow grease seem to go together.

1. 
   Rich14 | Apr 26, 2008 12:51am | #10

   The advice to leave teak unfinished and let it develop a "silver-gray" patina is always given to this kind of question. I believe the term "silver gray" is a euphemism, as the weathered wood simply looks old and dirty to my eye. Teak, cedar, redwood, all look about the same after a while.As a sailboat owner, I can attest to the never-ending chore of maintaining a spar varnish finish on teak. Lots of work, but worth the effort on a boat. And beautiful when diligently kept on outdoor furniture. But it's pretty rare to see this done very often. If you do, buy only real marine spar varnish, at a marine supply store. That's the only kind that has adequate UV protection. Expensive at first, much cheaper in the long run as there's less re-varnishing needed.Penofin is a very decent finish to use for this purpose. Completely different than a spar varnished finish, but very serviceable.If you cover the furniture as you say you're going to do, (and you SHOULD cover finished teak) the varnish or Penofin will last MUCH longer than uncovered. Don't skimp on the material either. Get that from a marine boat cover maker out of high-quality UV-protected material. Expensive in the short run, but well worth the price and cheaper as the years go by.Rich

   Edited 4/25/2008 6:18 pm ET by Rich14