THANX TO ALL FOR YOUR HELP ON MY H.V.L.P. ISSUES, FOR NOW I WILL PUT UP WITH THE GUN I BOUGHT & APPLY THE ADVICE ON PROCEDURE I GOT FROM YOU ALL. HERE’S ANOTHER FINISHING QUANDRY. I HAVE A 14′ x 24′ DETATCHED SHOP WITH AN 8′ x 10′ AREA ATTATCHED TO THE BACK CORNER. I’M IN THE PROCESS OF TURNING THIS ATTATCHED AREA INTO A FINISHING ROOM & I’M WONDERING ABOUT WHAT TO USE FOR AN EXHAUST FAN. I MAINLY USE WATERBASED FINISHES & SPRAY POLY FOR TOP COATS. THIS ROOM WILL EVENTUALLY GET A LOT OF USE. IT’S GETTING COLDER UP HERE IN MINNESOTA & NEED TO BE CONCERNED ABOUT HEAT AS WELL. SO, DO I PUT AN EHAUST FAN IN THE WALL OF THE FINISHING ROOM & SUCK AIR FROM THE MAIN SHOP AREA THRU A VENT WITH A FILTER OVER IT? HOW BIG OF A FAN? I HATE TO BLOW TO MUCH HEAT OUTSIDE. ANYONE HAVE EXPERIENCE WITH THIS? THANX
Discussion Forum
Get It All!
UNLIMITED Membership is like taking a master class in woodworking for less than $10 a month.
Start Your Free TrialCategories
Discussion Forum
Digital Plans Library
Member exclusive! – Plans for everyone – from beginners to experts – right at your fingertips.
Highlights
-
Shape Your Skills
when you sign up for our emails
This site is protected by reCAPTCHA and the Google Privacy Policy and Terms of Service apply. -
Shop Talk Live Podcast
-
Our favorite articles and videos
-
E-Learning Courses from Fine Woodworking
-
-
Replies
Random thoughts: check codes to see but suspect you still need explosion proof fans, sealed lights, switches, etc. Fan volume determined by sq ft of area being vented. When possible, put everything outside the room that you can (light switches, compressor) sealed troffer lights that lay in a gasket on the ceiling and bulb replacement from above (this assumes you can walk above to do so). For colder climates, you can get vents that pull in the outside air and have a heat element inside to heat what you're essentially blowing out the door, which doesn't solve the lost heat issue but keeps you away from potentially sucking shop dust into your finishing room. Vents in wall are common, and most I've seen use 2" thick roll batts like you'd get for commercial sized furnace units. Double doors, swinging out to the shop assist getting things in and out and suction inside only tightens door seal. Compressor, lines, filters, all outside with a run through the wall so all you have inside is a quick connect. Plenty of light, and if you can get a combination of natural and fixtures you might be happier. Ever notice how some colors shift depending of light? Think that's called chatoyance. If you're going to do a lot of color matching might look into how to isolate one from the other as need arises.
This forum post is now archived. Commenting has been disabled