Replies

1. 
   SteveSchoene | Jul 18, 2008 05:24am | #1

   If you have "stuff" seeping through the finish already then the answer has got to be strip and start over. 

   I've no experience finishing PEG so if someone who has actually  worked with it chimes in, then listen to him.  With that caveat, I'd try the first usual resort for such problems--shellac.  It's got to be dewaxed shellac if you want to use polyurethane varnish over it. 

    

1. 
   bobbinman | Jul 18, 2008 08:53pm | #3

   thanks for your insight on my problem.

   bobbinman

2. 
   AlanWS | Jul 18, 2008 05:56am | #2

   Hoadley (Understanding Wood) says the two best finishes for PEG-treated wood are oil and moisture-cure polyurethane. He uses Watco danish oil usually. He says shellac, alkyd varnish, and lacquer cannot be used. The finish should be used immediately after final sanding, because it picks up moisture from the air and the surface can feel damp and look sooty. I suspect cleaning the surface with alcohol would help, as that's what he recommends before gluing.

3. 
   sapwood | Jul 18, 2008 11:36pm | #4

   Quite a few years ago I did a lot of turning and used peg. I believe that the only finish I used then was Watco. It dried and looked good. FWW did an article about peg way back. I think I got all my info from that article.

1. 
   Joe Sullivan | Jul 19, 2008 05:47am | #8

   Guys:If you get PEG treated wood, there isn't much you can do, but for heaven's sake, don't ever treat anything with PEG. It does provide some dimensional stability -- there are better choices -- but it is not as chemically stable as once believed. Over time, it will combine with chemicals in the wood and make other things. For example, in oak, the result can be sulfuric acid. The museum curators used to use PEG by the tanker load on nautical antiquities. One of the biggest is the VASA, Sweden's great recovered 17th century warship. VASA is now undergoing treatment to stablize it and de-acidify it. Over time, several tons of acid developed, and the ship started to dissolve. Seems now there are other chemicals that can be used with PEG for stability, but there are also treatments that are simply better, such as the things done at A&M with silenes.Joe

2. 
   bobbinman | Sep 05, 2008 04:37am | #9

   I've conquered PEG!!!!!!  First I re-stripped the hollow vessel, then I wiped it down with Acetone three times letting it dry 24 hrs. between wipings. I then sprayed two coats of MLCambells Vinyl Sealer. Next I used Minwax Polyurethane spray cans (no spray gun cleaning).  It's been two months and no gummy finish. 

   Tom

   Edited 9/5/2008 4:38 pm ET by bobbinman

4. 
   BruceS | Jul 19, 2008 02:06am | #5

   Definately not lacquer!!  I did a vase of maple burl that was given to me, later finding out it was PEG treated.  Finish stays gummy.

   Work Safe,  Count to 10 when your done for the day !!

   Bruce S. 

    

1. 
   bobbinman | Jul 19, 2008 04:32am | #6

   SOUNDS LIKE THE MESS I HAVE NOW. I wonder if I sanded the poly a bit wiped the vase down with acetone then used a water borne finish over top. wHAT DO YUO THINK?

1. 
   BruceS | Jul 19, 2008 05:12am | #7

   Went to my PED turning book.  They suggest Watco and water base finish was not mentioned.  Totally removing the old is probably going to be a must :-(Work Safe,  Count to 10 when your done for the day !!

   Bruce S. 

    

2. 
   bobbinman | Sep 05, 2008 04:38am | #10

   I've conquered  PEG!!!!!!  First I re-stripped the hollow vessel, then I wiped it down with Acetone three times letting it dry 24 hrs. between wipings. I then sprayed two coats of MLCambells Vinyl Sealer. Next I used Minwax Polyurethane spray cans (no spray gun cleaning).  It's been two months and no gummy finish. 

   Tom

   Edited 9/5/2008 4:39 pm ET by bobbinman