Replies

1. 
   SCFrankland | Jul 01, 2002 06:28pm | #1

   Well I also just finished my bench and am now getting ready to finish it also. I built it all out of yellow birch. For the finish I started by oiling the top with raw linseed oil thinned 50%. I applied a coat a day top and bottom for a week and am now doing it once a week for the next month. Then it will be once a month for a year and once a year for life. Seems to be a lot of work but looking at my grandfathers bench that is over 50 years old I am convinced that it works. As for the base I am applying 4-6 coats of gloss Varathane (left over can form another job).

   Scott C. Frankland

   Newfoundland Wood Worker

1. 
   EBrandt | Jul 01, 2002 07:04pm | #2

   Scott-

   Thanks for the advice. I too had heard that recipe, the schedule is perhaps a bit longer than I had hoped for. :) However, you make a good point of only doing the top that way, which would not be too time consuming at all for the maintenance applications.

   Any reason you say raw linseed oil instead of boiled linseed oil?  I have heard lots of people using BLO, but never raw...

   And when you say thinned 50%, you mean with mineral spirits I assume?

   Thanks,

   Eric.

1. 
   RSRose | Jul 01, 2002 07:21pm | #3

   Scott & Eric,

   Well this is the kind of thing that generates a lot of opinions, sometimes resulting in VERY heated discussions. Get three woodworkers together, and you'll get 5 opinions about finishing. Add to that the subject of finishing a workbench, and the number of opinions skyrockets.

   My 2 cents . . .

   While methods that have been used for ages usually survive because they have worked, the myth of linseed oil as a finish and the schedule of oiling as described is one of those myths that has somehow survived despite the fact that it is almost worthless.

   Linseed oil never really hardens. The formula is a recepie for a finish that will eventually become gummy and and annoying, if it doesn't actually smaell rancid. It affords no protection to the wood at all.

   I suggest several careful coats of almost any varnish other than spar which tends to remain soft. Scuff sand between coats, rub the final coat with 0000 steel wool. You might want to leave the surface alone as it will have a nice feel and provide some "tooth" to objects being worked on . But I then sand with 1500 grit wet-or-dry using paste wax as a lubricant and buff the wax to a low sheen. You will have an excellent, hard, solvent-resistant surface to work on. Drips will wipe clean. Be prepared to refinish the top about yearly.

   Rich

1. 
   Bernie3265 | Jul 01, 2002 07:47pm | #4

   Rich, as you state, it seems like there could be a lot of argument here. Being a beginner I won't even attempt to dispute. Instead, I'd like an opinion if you don't mind.

   As I read your post, I noticed that you say you sand to 1500 with wax. This is something similar to an effect that is possible with Watco Finishing Wax except Watco recommends 600 grit w/d, (this is what I read on the side of the can). I suppose that is a matter of preference. I wonder if this is all that is really needed and maybe the varnish could be eliminated from the recipie ? It sure sounds a like it would be a lot easier to maintain.  Thanks

   Edited 7/1/2002 12:49:34 PM ET by Bernie

1. 
   RSRose | Jul 01, 2002 08:04pm | #5

   Bernie,

   I wouldn't eliminate the varnish. You need some protection on that workbench. I mentioned rubbing with the wax as the very last step. It's a nice final touch and gives that last barrier of protection to the surface. Not much protection in that last wax layer. It gets worn off pretty fast. It's the durable varnish that's important. Sanded carefully and rubbed at the last coat, it will look very "tight" to the wood.

   Use a wipe-on varnish technique if you want (50/50 varnish/solvent), but build up a decent film with many applications to protect the wood. Oil or wax together or alone won't do it.

   Commercially finished benches usually have a spray laquer finish.

   Rich

2. 
   Bernie3265 | Jul 01, 2002 08:47pm | #6

   Thanks for clarifying that Rich. Makes a lot of sense to me. Finishing sure is a confusing subject. I am planning on making the two Jeff Jewit books one of my next tool purchases. I've heard that he explains the processes and reasons behind them very well.

   Thanks Again.

   Edited 7/1/2002 1:47:48 PM ET by Bernie

3. 
   RSRose | Jul 01, 2002 09:18pm | #7

   Bernie,

   Well, you will be reading one of the best works on the subject.

   Finishing is not really confusing. There are only several basic processes to understand, and once you do, everything else falls into place.

   There are only two major process by which a finish becomes a finish - either by evaporation of a solvent (shellac, laquer) or by a chemical/physical change (reaction) of the finish in or on the wood (varnishes, oils). So finishes are classified as evaporative or reactive.

   Then, basically there are two classifications of finishes as to whether they pentrate the wood (like oils) or form a film on the surface (varnishes, shellac, laquer).

   Finishes which form a film on the surface are much more protective of that surface than non-film-forming finishes. The final "look" of the piece is a matter of taste and understanding the nature of the finish after it has dried or cured or hardened or polymerized, and in the hands of a craftsman, ANY finish can be made to be a thing of beauty.

   Rich

2. 
   Trees2dust | Jul 01, 2002 11:58pm | #8

   Hi Eric and gang,

   I'm also in the final stages of my first solid-top workbench.  It's 2 1/2" maple with 4" thick skirt and end caps.  I flattened the top, smoothed it just enough with a smoothing plane and scraper, and am about ready to put on a temporary finish.  I say temporary because I'm planning on having to flatten the top again after it moves.  Since this is my first solid-top workbench, I don't really know what to expect, but I have read that solid tops need re-flattening now and then.  So, I was planning on using Minwax Antique Oil finish to make it easy to renew. 

   I used 8/4 kiln-dried maple that had been stored in my workshop 3 years, laminated quarter-sawn edges up.  Each piece was jointed straight (not forced with clamps) before assembly. What have others experienced with solid workbench tops with respect to wood movement?

   Rick

1. 
   EBrandt | Jul 02, 2002 12:33am | #9

   Thanks to all who have replied (and hopefully will continue to reply).  You all have re-enforced my original suspicion....oil won't do it alone. I have spray equipment, but don't think I'll spray this project, as its a real pain to move already and its not finished yet.

   My feelings right now are to watco danish oil it for color & artificial patina, then wipe on either a varnish or poly thinned 50/50. multiple coats. Stopping when I get bored.

   Rick, your bench sounds a lot like mine - mine is 3" solid q/s glue up of 8/4 ash w/ 3-3/4" aprons and side skirts. I would have liked to use hard maple, but the local supplier had a special on the ash that made it about 1/2 the price of the maple. Simple economics sent me driving home with the ash. About the movement...I've planned for it, but we'll still see...good news is its as humid in the shop now as it probably ever will be.

   E.

1. 
   Bernie3265 | Jul 02, 2002 12:43am | #10

   "My feelings right now are to watco danish oil it for color & artificial patina, then wipe on either a varnish or poly thinned 50/50. multiple coats."

   I've heard this wasnt a good idea. Watco is said to have a tendency to lift varnish over time. I haven't confirmed this with Watco but I have read another post about it and it was supposed have been confirmed. According to the instructions it is intended to be an end to end finish. The only recommended topping is Watco Finishing Wax. By the way, this does produce a very nice finish but as was stated before, its probably not up to the durability that you want.

2. 
   Alan | Jul 02, 2002 05:07am | #11

   Eric,

   What most of the old-timers used to finish their wood tools--benches included--was linseed oil.  (The old guy that taught me most of the very little I know made his own bench and wooden planes--all finished with boiled linseed oil.  When his planes were ready for a finish he would plug up the mouth with some window putty and then fill up the mouth with boiled linseed oil.  He would keep it "topped off" and when the oil began to ooze out the ends, it was done.)

   It's true that linseed oil doesn't give much, if any, film-like protection to the top.  But this isn't a coffee table; it's a work bench.  It's going to have things dropped on it, edge tools stuck into it, its edges and corners dented and numerous things of varying abrasiveness dragged over it.  Any film finish, no matter how tough or how many coats, is very soon going to be peeled up, abraded through and cut to pieces.  (I learned this lesson the hard way.)  For me, and my bench, a finish that doesn't sit on top, but builds from within, is a point in its favor.  Linseed oil has the advantage of being easily repaired when your bench gets its inevitable dings, nicks and scratches--if it needs any repair at all.  This is not true of film finishes.

   Also, with linseed oil you can wet sand it, like Danish oil, and get that silky smooth surface.

   One of the previous posters said that linseed oil never hardens, and will result in a gummy mess.  (I believe I'm remembering correctly.)  That may be true of raw linseed oil, but boiled linseed oil certainly does cure and harden--though depending on how you apply it, BLO can take a while to cure completely.  But once cured, IMHO, it is gorgeous.  I have used BLO on a great number of furniture pieces; none of them are gummy.

   If you can't bring yourself to use BLO you can use tung oil.  TO has many of the benefits of BLO as well as being a tougher finish.  I would not buy a tung oil "finish"; I would get pure tung oil.  It's just as easy to apply; and you don't have to take all the precautions with a half a can so it will keep.

   Alan

1. 
   TomMGTC | Jul 02, 2002 05:15am | #12

   I use waterlox on my benches. Easy to apply and easy to repair and it looks great. If it's good enough for Frank Klausz it's good enough for me.

1. 
   RSRose | Jul 02, 2002 08:20am | #13

   I concede, most of the current books on the subject describe oil or oil/varnish. I varnish my bench.

   I WAS talking about boiled linseed oil getting gummy. I think that it's the only finish that gets WORSE with age. It looks its best fresh (just applied and still glistening) and goes downhill from there. I think that's the origin of all those formulas for repeated application - to keep it looking fresh. I have never seen a older linseed oiled piece that wasn't dull and gummy feeling. While it undergoes polymerization, it never really hardens and ultimately deteriorates.

   Tung oil is nothing like that. It improves with age.

   But I agree, a workbench is not a piece of furniture - although it's a shame to put that first chisel mark in any newly finished slab of wood. It's a workbench. Don't abuse it, but do pound, saw, chisel, gouge, rasp drill and otherwise work the work that it holds. Most workers hardly ever see the surfaces of their benches anyway, what with shavings, sawdust, tools, rags, cans, and projects all over them.

   Rich

3. 
   JHTait | Jul 02, 2002 10:53pm | #14

   The only thing necessary to finish a workbench is sweat.

   If you want your top to be flat - and you live in climate featuring more than one season - you're going to have to resurface (plane) the top every spring and fall, because it is going to move with the seasons. Finishes will only get in your way, allowing moisture to get in the wood at varying rates instead of equally as it would with unfinished wood. Remember - as someone else said - it is a workbench, not your dining room table.

   Good Luck!

   Jos. H. Tait

1. 
   Biscardi | Jul 04, 2002 06:00am | #15

   About the only real purpose to a finish on a bench is to make it easier to scrape crap off of it- like spilled glue, etc. . .

   After all you are going to eventually get stray tool marks in it, drill thru into it etc.

   If it is too pretty you can't be doing too much on it.

   Frank

   ps Then again some people only own brass tools with cherry handles-everything polished and in order. I am a bit more utilitarian. If it makes you happy, use whatever you like unabashedly.

   Edited 7/3/2002 11:03:08 PM ET by BISCARDI

1. 
   gerry001 | Jul 04, 2002 07:35am | #16

   I'd pretty much agree with Frank on this; the bench is made to be used and used hard. The wood and construction are the more important items. I really can't see puting any oil or oil/varnish on. Both are too soft and not very water resistant. Further, if I need to resurface I don't want to wait several days for it to cure.

   I've used varnish and other items, and finally settled on waterbase poly. You don't need (or want) any more than the slightest film buildup. None of them will be tough enough to handle the abuse, so that doesn't matter. When it needs some attention, I just run a random orbital over the top, wipe it clean, and use a foam pad to apply the wb poly. Less than an hour later I can start using it. No adhesion problems due to the thin coat and sanding.

   Gerry

4. 
   RSRose | Jul 05, 2002 05:06am | #17

   No. Never used Velvet oil. What is it? An oil/varnish mix?

5. 
   RSRose | Jul 05, 2002 07:14pm | #18

   Rick,

   Thanks.

   Thought I remembered where I had seen it. Here's this website again where it's listed as an oil/varnish.

   http://www.popularwoodworking.com/features/finish2.html

   Rich