Replies

1. 
   JeffHeath | Nov 26, 2009 07:57pm | #1

   You'll want to fill the pores with a grain filler. There are many different types on the market. I like the product from Crystallac, but there are going to be several suggestions.

   Jeff

2. 
   Woodman41 | Nov 26, 2009 07:57pm | #2

   Behlen's Pore-o-Pac filler is essential. You didn't say if you were going to dye or stain the piece but filler is neutral color so you should tint it up a little lighter than finish color if you are using dye or a little darker if you are using a stain. If no color, then just tint it to match your piece before top coating it.

3. 
   Westchester | Nov 27, 2009 04:50pm | #3

   Filler is somewhat difficult to use on pieces other then flat tops.

   When you say smooth - do you mean a filled finish that looks like glass?

    

   SA

1. 
   paivey | Nov 27, 2009 07:31pm | #5

   No, I'm not going to dye or stain the wood, I like the color of natural mahogany. I've done a few other pieces in mahogany and finished one with a hand rubbed oil finish and a couple others with spray lacquer. Even after smooth planning and using a card scraper the wood has a porous look (best way I can describe it) and, although it doesn't look bad, I was just wondering if there was a way to get a smoother finish with mahogany

1. 
   Westchester | Nov 27, 2009 08:15pm | #6

   OK - we are talking about the finished wood surface - not the final finish i.e.  ( lacquer / varnish / shellac etc ) -

   Mahogany naturally has deeper grains then many other woods - depending on the species - the grain can be slight ....... to pronounced. 

   After final smoothing with scrapers - sand with a garnet paper up to 280 grit -

   that is as smooth as a wood surface needs to be.

    

   Good luck

    

   SA

    

1. 
   Woodman41 | Nov 27, 2009 09:23pm | #7

   I disagree. Woods like mahogany, oak, and padauk (and to some degree walnut as well) have a distinctly different final finish with the grain filled than unfilled and no amount of sanding will change that. You could wet sand in a diluted varnish, treating it as a wiping finish, to create a slurry that fills the pores but that would be a whole different process than what Paivey is asking about. I've done this on exterior oak doors, using a spar varnish cut in half with turpentine, and the result was very pleasing.

   As for profiled surfaces, I've found the key is to work quickly applying and wiping off the filler with a rag dampened with some behlen solvent, moving from one small area to the next. It's time consuming but manageable, of course given the different way that light and the eye treats vertical (table legs) vs. horizontal surfaces it may not be necessary either.Lastly, I'm not sure I would lacquer a bistro table. I'd probably go with a conversion varnish, which is going to be far more durable than lacquer, which in the case of table and benches is a good thing.

1. 
   Westchester | Nov 27, 2009 09:45pm | #8

   Woodman

   Paivey states he is trying to smooth the wood surface for a natural finish.

   Recommending grain filler to someone who isn't familar using it can be a hard lesson for them.

   He wants to use lacquer  ?  Not a bad choice.

   I've used lacquer outside on different projects without a problem. 

   SA

2. 
   Woodman41 | Nov 27, 2009 10:00pm | #9

   What people say and what they mean are often different."Being that mahogany is so porous - how best to prepare the wood at this point to get a smooth surface before applying a lacquer finish?"It seems pretty obvious that he is asking for a procedure which will alleviate the surface ripples that are evident in unfilled grain on mahogany. My response addresses that directly.As for lacquer, I didn't say it was a bad choice, just that it would not be my first choice.

3. 
   Westchester | Nov 27, 2009 10:10pm | #10

   Smooth the wood = garnet sand paper.

   He did not reply when I asked if he was after a glass like finish. 

   I'm guessing he wants to be assured he has done everything to prep the wood

   Am I wrong?

   SA

4. 
   Woodman41 | Nov 27, 2009 10:21pm | #11

   I guess we're both right until Paivey clears it up :)

4. 
   SteveSchoene | Nov 27, 2009 06:43pm | #4

   Pore filler under lacquer can present problems.  Oil based pore filler. especially if it hasn't been well cured, under a full wet coat of lacquer, can be attacked by the strong solvents in lacquer.  I'd think a barrier coat of shellac, with the first lacquer coat sprayed dry would work, though the guys around here that work more with lacquer topcoats may have better solutions.