Replies

1. 
   LeeGrindinger | Mar 08, 2005 09:37pm | #1

   You're kinda stuck on this one. The only solution I can think of that does not involve sanding and respraying is to rub out the top. Forget rubbing if it's latex, latex never gets hard enough for rubbing. Let me know if you sprayed oil based enamel, enamel can be rubbed out but you'd probably be ahead sanding and repainting just the top.

   As a not-likely-to-work experiment you could let the paint harden for a few days and steel wool it again with 0000 steel wool. If the damage is lessened to a point you can live with throw a coat of paste wax on the top and call it good. Be aware that paint cures for weeks so the sooner you try this the less likely it is to work since the paint will still be soft.

   Lee

   MontanaFest
1. 
   Sailfish | Mar 08, 2005 09:41pm | #2

   I did do it with oil based. Honestly, I really dont' want to put another coat of paint if possible. First, I'd probably make things worse by doing so (thats my luck), second the fibers are right on top I can even grasp them with tweezers, and 3rd I hate cleaning the sprayer LOL.

   I'm willing to let it harden and try the method you mentioned above-----------------------------------------------------------------------------

   "Have you seen my baseball?"

    

    

1. 
   LeeGrindinger | Mar 08, 2005 10:00pm | #3

   Oil based, that's good news.Don't tweeze them out. Let the paint harden for at least two weeks, a month if you can stand it. Then work the fibers back and forth with a soft rag breaking them, not pulling them out. If you pull them out they will damage the paint.Then, steel wool the top with the 0000 steel wool. If you can't feel the fibers at this point then apply paste wax. If you can still feel the fibers it might be necessary to use sandpaper to really flush them. Get some 600 wet/dry from an auto parts store, pour a small puddle of water on the top and sand it wet vetry carfully and very gently. This will often work better than just steel wool to remove nibs. You'll need to still use the steel wool and wax after the sandpaper.The wax will help protect the top as well as evening the sheen where you steel wool it.LeeMontanaFest

1. 
   Sailfish | Mar 08, 2005 10:57pm | #4

   I can stand it. Thanks for the tips. i'll try to let you know how it turns out.....next month.-----------------------------------------------------------------------------

   "Have you seen my baseball?"

    

    

2. 
   Sailfish | Mar 17, 2005 12:08am | #8

   You can't really tell the quality (or lack of ;-) from these photo's, but here they are. Another couple weeks and i'll try to get the steel wool out.

   This is what I started out with

   View Image

    

   View Image-----------------------------------------------------------------------------

   "Have you seen my baseball?"

    

    

   
2. 
   Ardito | Mar 09, 2005 12:09am | #5

   I made the switch to synthetic steel wool and have never looked back. 

   When you go to rub out your dresser, I would go with a Maroon colored synthetic pad.  They sell them in different colors to represent the different 0's.

   Maroon = 0000 steel wool

   Cheers!
   Dark Magneto

    

3. 
   WillGeorge | Mar 09, 2005 03:55am | #6

   our soon-to-be daughter...

   May she always be happy and healthy... Bless her...

   I know she is in good hands cus' your a woodworker! Takes special care at stuff...

1. 
   Sailfish | Mar 09, 2005 04:12pm | #7

   Thanks!-----------------------------------------------------------------------------

   "Have you seen my baseball?"