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When I apply finish to drawers I’m never really sure when and where to stop. Are there any accepted standards? Obviously the face gets the most attention but how about the sides, bottom and back and the reverse sides of each of these pieces. I use handcut dovetails so I like some finish on them to make them standout but don’t want so much finish on the sides as to affect their performance. Anybody else find this a problem?
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Replies
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I believe finishing the sides and back add to the beauty of the work, although it is more than likely not necessary. I have run into a problem that has required me to remove all interior finish to a nine drawer cherry chest I made a few years ago. The problem was a strong unpleasant odor. The last issue of Fine Woodworking had an article by Becksvoort and he states certain oils should not be applied to cabinet interiors. I believe him! Anyone have any advice on what can be applied and not end up with a rancid smell?
*Daniel,Shellac.Dano
*Daniel, Waterborne Howie.........
*OK so I use shellac or waterborne or some other non stinky finish. Now I spray or brush the interior, outsides, back and bottom. The first coat leaves some grit, raised grain, so I either rub it out now and forget it or apply a second coat, maybe rub that out and spray again. But I don't want a thick finish on the sides. Sometimes it feels like I'm finishing myself in circles. Guess my question is how many coats and how many rub outs are you guys using on finer drawers.Daniel, I finished the inside of a cabinet with Watco once and it still smells years later.
*I finished a small spice cabinet with a mixture of boiled linseed oil and mineral spirits 10 years ago and the inside still smells today. I'll never do that again. For drawers I use shellac or waterbased finishes and never more than 2 coats. Seal coat, sand and then coat again. Done. In some lower end work or stuff that won't be seen or used very often I might even use just one coat and sand lightly.
*I hand plane my drawer stock, as this eliminates or nearly so, any raised grain. I wipe on coat of thin shellac. Followed by a coat of wax, put on with a synthetic abrasive pad. This pad removes any slight raised grain. The result is a drawer that doesn’t smell, slides like it’s on grease, and is smooth to the touch.
*Avoid pure oils, such as tung oil or linseed oil, and you won't get the rancid smell.You can use no finish, wax, shellac, 'tung oil finish, 'wiping varnish', pre-cat, post-cat, etc., and all will dry or cure to either no smell or pleasant smell, but those pure oils are a just a stinky no-no on internal parts that don't see much air circulation. But in answer to your question, I usually gash on a bit of pre-cat with a spray gun on all internal parts- it's quick and simple- even if the outside/show parts are something else, such as varnish or oil, or shellac- rare- or,......whatever. Slainte RJ.
*Thanks everyone. Rob, your rub out with wax on the synthetic pad sounds interesting. I'll give it a try.
*Traditionally drawers were left unfinished.Stephen
*Ian,My experience of pieces that come into my workshop for restoration, usually of British or Australian origin is that apart from the fronts, almost all drawers have no finish. Having said that, generally the front finish has been carried around the sides (over the dovetails) by about an inch. FWIW.Don
*Don, I've noticed the same method on old (1920's) american made oak dressers. Looks like the inside of the front might have a thin finish just to help equalize moisture absorbtion but the sides, bottom and back are unfinished. Thanks.
*There are 2 reasons I finish my drawers. One is by applying dark shellac; I can give the drawers an aged look, which is important with the kind of work I do. The other reason is that since I build accurate reproductions, some of the drawer construction, presents cross grain concerns, and I hope that by sealing them I can prevent some shrinkage cracks, although, I doubt this will really help. If it weren’t for this, I would probably leave them unfinished.
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