Replies

1. 
   Ed | Jun 18, 2007 08:13pm | #1

   To get shimmer you need to build up a film finish.  When you flooded the wood with your three-part mixture I suspect it puddled on the surface or at least wet it so it simulated a film finish. 

   Sand the planed wood at least to 150 grit. Apply several coats of finish according to the maker's directions. Sand in between coats to get a level surface, and continue until the surface film is thick enough to give you the look you are after.

   Ed

    

1. 
   residue | Jun 18, 2007 08:25pm | #2

   Thanks for the reply.

   I applied the finish and wiped it dry after about 10 min. The shimmer I saw was after one coat of finish had dried over night.

2. 
   Kevin | Jun 18, 2007 08:27pm | #3

   I agree with Ed except that I would sand up to 220 or 320. My rule of thumb is up to 220 if I plan on adding artificial color (dye or pigments) and up to 320 if not.

2. 
   KiddervilleAcres | Jun 18, 2007 08:32pm | #4

   Does the shimmer effect go straight across the board as opposed to the length and are they uniform?

   If so could it be from the ever so slight cupping left by the planer?  Sanding may have/would have removed them?

   I'm by no means an expert, just a thought.

   Regards,

   Bob @ Kidderville Acres

    

   A Woodworkers mind should be the sharpest tool in the shop!

1. 
   Ed | Jun 18, 2007 08:49pm | #5

   Residue -

   I assume that after you sand to 180 you apply a finish, let it dry overnight, and then do not see that shimmer. 

   Perhaps your planer blades are real dull and are glazing the  wood surface?  That might explain the shimmer visible with one coat of mixture.  Then you sand, removing the glazed wood.  Now you need to build up a film which one coat won't accomplish.

   Ed

    

3. 
   SteveSchoene | Jun 18, 2007 11:20pm | #6

   It sure seems that the "shimmer" is planner ripple.  No powered planer gives a surface that is immediately suitable for finishing.  The sanding is just eliminating this defect. 

   For shimmer that is in the wood, not a defect, the best way to reveal that is with a finely set hand plane, followed by light use of a card scraper.  No sand paper need to be used. Sanding with finer grit will also bring it out.  

   For an oil/varnish finish you can sand to 320.  Stopping at 180 is OK for film finishes but not quite fine enough for oil finishes that don't build a film on the surface.  After you have worked your way up to the desired grit with the ROS, use that same grit and sand with the grain by hand. 

1. 
   jeff100 | Jun 19, 2007 10:45pm | #9

   When you guys recommend an oil/varnish mix, (probably a dumb question) but what EXACTLY is the varnish you are referring to?Jeff

1. 
   SteveSchoene | Jun 19, 2007 11:45pm | #10

   Just about any oil-based varnish will do to mix with oil, even poly, though since I never use poly straight, I would only have a traditional resin varnish around to use.  No matter what varnish you choose the properties will be almost identical since no film is built on the surface, and it's the properties of the film that differ modestly among varnishes. 

4. 
   BilWil | Jun 19, 2007 05:03pm | #7

   In my experience  cherry, and some other woods, take finish differently after sanding than after planing.  I think you may want to experiment with a cabinet scraper and then apply you mix.  I think you are loosing the "shimmer" to sanding and I suspect you would have to sand to 800 or better to get it back, and then you might be burnishing the wood and not get the shimmer.

1. 
   residue | Jun 19, 2007 05:51pm | #8

   I thught a scraper might be the way to go but I have been avoiding it since I have never used one. This might be a good time to get over it.

   Thanks

5. 
   SteveV | Jun 20, 2007 05:09am | #11

   Use a scraper and then hit it with 400 grit paper.  Sanding mashes the wood fibers.  I live by my scraper.