Replies

1. 
   stantheman | Sep 14, 2008 09:52pm | #1

   Jim for small thin frames with angles and beads, I prefer shellac or lacquer (Deft) in spray can form - makes it easy to cover lightly without drips, etc.  Frames don't get a lot of wear so it is not that critical.  Shellac is good on walnut because it adds a bit of color to warm up the blue-gray colors in walnut.  No significant advantage otherwise, outside of ease of application.  My opinion.

1. 
   jimburrum | Sep 15, 2008 09:34pm | #4

   Perfect, that sounds like something I can do! Thanks!    Jim

2. 
   IdahoDon | Sep 17, 2008 11:12pm | #8

   I agree that spray cans are ideal for small projects like this.  Even if I have a gravity feed detail gun at hand it's just less mess and hassle to use a can for small items. 

   Beer was created so carpenters wouldn't rule the world.

2. 
   Steinmetz | Sep 15, 2008 02:11am | #2

   jim. just this week I made four matching octagon shaped frames for old photos of my children They are also of American black walnut. Wanting them to look authentically as old as the photos, I chose to just buff them with a buffing wheel charged with a slight bit of red rouge compound Came out super! Steinmetz.

1. 
   PCM | Sep 15, 2008 05:17pm | #3

   Neat idea! Do you mean jewlers rouge, usually comes as a stick  or lump?

   Pete

   My wife is presently assembling a walnut music box kit from Bartley for a charity auction, and we were wondering what finish to use. Unfortunately no scraps, will use inside (later covered with felt). 

   Edited 9/15/2008 10:22 am ET by PCM

1. 
   Steinmetz | Sep 16, 2008 05:42am | #6

   POM, I used jewelers rouge and a cotton buff very sparingly charged with the compound (Stick formed) The wax, along with the friction(Heat) of the buffing wheel creates a durable matte finish that compliments the walnut. When turning tool handles,you can also buff finish the work while still rotating ,using a spinning buff applied to the moving work. I'm not sure if SEARS still sells their four pack buffing compound anymore? RED: (Rouge)finest) FOR gold silver.
   Brown: medium fine grit(Tripoli) for brass, bronze ,copperSold near tools buffing wheels grinding wheels etc. When I polish my wife's copper cookware, I first buff it with the brown, then the rouge to get a brilliant shine.

   Black: (Emory)aggressive grit, for iron,steel
   White: (stainless) plastic, aluminum Steinmetz.Edited 9/15/2008 10:44 pm ET by Steinmetz

   Edited 9/15/2008 10:52 pm ET by Steinmetz

2. 
   jimburrum | Sep 15, 2008 09:35pm | #5

   Very interesting, I never would have thought of that one... I'll have to give it a try!    Thanks alot,     Jim

3. 
   dkellernc | Sep 17, 2008 03:34pm | #7

   I make a lot of picture and painting frames, typically as gifts for family (they're easy to make in quantity around Christmas). For matted photo frames, my opinion is that you typically don't want a "high style" frame, and that generally means "not shiny".

   Therefore, I do the easiest possible finish that yields a good look and is reasonably protected - tung oil (the real stuff - not "tung oil varnishes), followed by buffing after a 3 day drying time, and paste wax. Many of my photo frames finished this way have been on the wall for 10 or 15 years, and look good. If the frames were to be hung in an non-climated controlled environment, such on a boat, in a garage, etc... I typically use a fast drying Danish oil product such as Watco natural over the tung oil and wax. The solvents in Watco mea that you don't have to remove the wax, and the result, depending on how many coats you put on, will yield a semi-gloss finish. The final result is a alkyd varnish layer that's quite protective against moisture.

   I only do pore-filling and french polishing with shellac on high-style carved painting frames, typically with highlights of goldleaf. Those are commissions and typically go for $3000 and up because of the design time, carving required, preparing the ground for the water-gilding process (many coats of guesso followed by rabbit skin glue/clay mixtures, then the gilding itself). Though complicated and a lot of work, it's also a lot of fun. - makes you feel like an alchemist.

   
   

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   Edited 9/17/2008 5:20 pm ET by dkellernc

1. 
   jimburrum | Sep 18, 2008 01:50pm | #9

   Hey, I think you "sound" like an alchemist to! I agree with your ref to high style phto frames, the one's I usually build are very simple in design and are gifts as well. I like the process you described, mainly because it is simple, sounds like something I could handle! When you buff after 3 days, is this done by hand or do you use a buffing wheel or something?

   Thanks alot for your comments/suggestions! I'll attach a photo in a week or so of the finished frames.

1. 
   dkellernc | Sep 18, 2008 04:53pm | #10

   Nope, no buffing wheel. I suppose a dremel-sized one could be used, but I personally feel that a buffing wheel would be too hard to control, and too hard to fit into the little recesses in the moldings of picture frames.So...I just use a hard paste wax like Butcher's Bowling Alley Wax (not really designed for this purpose, but seems to work really well) and some polishing cloths you can get from the automotive store for a couple of bucks. Takes a bit of elbow grease, but it's not too bad.