Replies

1. 
   Biscardi | Dec 04, 2004 09:18pm | #1

   I really like orange shellac on walnut. You should  fill it. I've found if I use shellac and rub it out pretty hard between the earlier coats, I can fill the pores with the shellac itself. The finish does get a little thick though if you do that.

   I'd fill it with a proprietary black filler and then resand the piece meticulously and then put BLO on it followed by the shellac. You probably aught to rub it out afterwards and wax it.

   I can't imagine how you can do this without beating up your wrists.

    

   If sounds like a lovely project.

   Frank

1. 
   TomBrown10 | Dec 05, 2004 04:33am | #3

   Thanks for the tips, Frank and Jim. By the way Frank, will you visit me in the hospital after I follow the steps you suggested? I'll be permanently disabled by the time I get to the waxing step...lol. I guess your point is that I should do whatever it takes to finish the clock properly. I was gonna try to have it done in time for a Christmas gift to Mom, but I can see that I will have to get her a Whitman Sampler to hold her over a little while longer.

   I suppose the prospect of the filling operation is what has me the most apprehensive. I am so afraid I'm gonna screw the whole thing up in the ninth inning, I am almost paralyzed at the thought of it. I'll certainly let you know how it goes. Thanks again all.

1. 
   UncleDunc | Dec 05, 2004 06:37am | #4

   >> I am so afraid I'm gonna screw the whole thing up in the ninth inning, I am almost
   >> paralyzed at the thought of it.Practice all the steps of finishing on scrap till you're confident enough to proceed. With the money and time you already have invested in this piece, it would be silly to start putting filler and finish on it without spending a few more bucks on practice materials.

2. 
   Biscardi | Dec 05, 2004 03:09pm | #6

   Tom,

   Sorry, I didn't mean to come up with a terrible finishing schedule. The clock really sounds gorgeous and it is a shame to not do it properly.

   Can you con someone into helping you? I have in the past offered to give my wife grocery money if she helps me sand. I gladly moved my son's bed out of the woods and back into the house once after he swept out the shop. Beer is also an strong motivator of men. Can you offer someone a case of beer for sanding?

   Seriously though, can you find a professional cabinet shop that would spray a few coats of lacquer for you if you bring it to then filled and finish sanded? There are also  kits for making custom sanding blocks that fit your mouldings precisely; these might take some stress of the wrist.

   Regards,

    

   Frank

2. 
   Jimma | Dec 04, 2004 10:13pm | #2

   Have you thought of using lacquer? It will darken less than oils and you can even use aerosols to save your wrists if you're not set up for spraying. Only a minimum of work between coats is required. A good brand to try is Deft. Good luck!

3. 
   jimstallard | Dec 05, 2004 02:39pm | #5

   I recently attended a class at Lonnie Bird's woodworking school, and he was showing us some of his pieces, including a tall clock recently featured in FWW. I asked about his finishes and he said he uses Bulls Eye Shellac by Zinsser. I picked up a quart at Woodcraft and have been very impressed. I just made my wife a shaker step stool out of wormy maple, put on one coat by wiping on with a rag. This stuff dries in a half hour, so I went over it with a piece of fine sandpaper and wiped on a second coat. I then waited the next day and went over it with fine steel wool, and that's it. It's the best finish I've ever gotten . . . creamy smooth and silky to touch with a classy sheen. As the label specifies, I cut mine down with denatured alcohol, available at Lowe's. You might use more than two coats, because I don't really know how durable it is . . . just very easy to apply and fast to dry.

4. 
   joinerswork | Dec 06, 2004 06:21am | #7

   Tom,

   My suggestion for a finish that will  look good, and be easy on your wrists. Try on a scrap first, of course. 

   Carefully sand to 180 grit.  This will be the worst for your carpel tunnel. But you've already sanded everything pretty well as you built the clock, haven't you?

   Stain with a diluted yellow (maple) NGR stain. I'd normally use a water based aniline dye, but I'm looking out for ya, see? Nice transparent color, not too dark for the crotch, looks like a mellow old finish.

   Brush or wipe on a coat of thin orange shellac. 

   Sand lightly with 320 grit finishing paper.  Just a quick once over to knock down the whiskers, but hit everything.  This will take you an hour, or two at the most.  There are a lot of nooks and crannies on a tall clock.

   Recoat with shellac, a little heavier "cut" if you prefer.  Let dry, sand any runs or nibs with 320, then rub out with 0000 steel wool.  Careful not to cut through on the corners.

   Paste wax when your wrists feel better.

   This won't be a filled finish.  But it will look good, and since a clock won't get the wear and tear that a dining table would, it'll hold up just fine for a hundred years or so.

   Good luck,

   Ray

1. 
   scooter1 | Dec 06, 2004 08:42pm | #8

   Filling Walnut isn't hard at all.I use a Bartleys Dark Filler, which does have stain in it, and will darken the wood, but is essentially a really really thick stain. Smoosh it on with brush, strike it off with a rubber squeegie or pliable plastic putty knife (crosswise to the grain), then wipe it off with a terry towel or burlap if you have it. Let it dry overnight and sand lightly.Do it again.Regards,
   Boris"Sir, I may be drunk, but you're crazy, and I'll be sober tomorrow" -- WC Fields, "Its a Gift" 1934

1. 
   TomBrown10 | Dec 07, 2004 11:48pm | #9

   Ok, ok...I surrender. I'm gonna yank a nice piece of the same tree outta my stack in the basement, divide it up into segments, and go at it with all of the suggestions you guys have so kindly shared with me. Then I'll sit back under the proper lighting, and make some sort of decision. I have always had a hard time making up my mind about anything, so I'll give myself a fighting chance for once. When I'm done, I'll scan a pic of the test board and post it here.

   But keep those cards and letters coming in till I do. I'm open for anything here. At some point I will at least have the name of a KNOTS contributor to blame if I screw it all up...Thanks again boys and girls.