Hello all,
My first post. I just made my grandson a toy front-loader to use in his sandbox. The toy is made out of ash. I can seem to find any information on what is an appropriate finish for wooden toys. Obviously it needs to be non-toxic. But with a lot small areas, ease of application is also a must (sanding would be a real bear!). I have heard that the best thing for hardwood toys is no finish at all but it seems like it will look pretty crummy fast. This toy is nor for display – it will be used. Any thoughts would be appreciated!
John L
Replies
Somebody will yell at me if I am wrong but acrylic paints are OK.. In fact I think I have seen statements on (some) new paint cans stating if the product is OK to use on toys or not.
Edited 4/25/2005 2:43 pm ET by Will George
Thanks for the reply, Will. I want to use a clear finish though.
Sorry I did not read that.. Back to reading 101!
By the way.. I LOVE and use ASH all the time.. Some splinters sometimes but I find sanding and finish up with a cabinet scraper works great on Ash.. I just love that wood! Not sure why but....
Edited 4/25/2005 3:05 pm ET by Will George
Acrylic paint, then coat with shellac. No problems.
I don't think you would want to use shellac on a toy going to be used outdoors in a sandbox. Shellac is not a good finish in a wet or moist environment.That said, all interior finishes or finishes that can are used in areas that children can get to have had to be "non-toxic when cured" since the mid 1970's. Using any oil based paint would be fine. I would avoid a waterborne paint for the same reason I would not use shellac.Howie.........
I mentioned shellac only because the child might still be at an age where he/she eats anything around. And shellac is safe.
All in all, no finish will last in an outdoor sandbox, exposed to the elements.
I know I'd rather have my child chew on shellac than eat polyurethane or polyester resin chips. This one is really a personal call; hopefully the poster is informed.
Just FYI, but shellac that's FDA approved as a food coating has to be dissolved in alcohol that's also edible. Denatured alcohol is NOT edible and shellac retains some of the alcohol and denaturant for a long time. You need to get some pure grain alcohol if you want the shellac to be edible.Lead paint was the last consumer grade coating that was toxic to the point is should not be used in the home.
Paul S
Website
John,
Not sure if it's the right finish for Ash, but mineral oil is nontoxic. I use it on cutting boards, and other food prep items.
Hi John,
Welcome to the forum!
I'd use a wipe-on finish that's easy to repair in case you ever want to apply a new coat and give it a fresh look. With that in mind, pretty much any of the danish oil finishes (oil & varnish blends) are a good choice. I'm partial to Waterlox Original Sealer & Finish, but that's just me. Give the finish a week or so to cure before you give it to your grandson.
Bob Flexner has an article on finish toxicity at this link - http://www.popularwoodworking.com/features/finish3.html
And another article that lists some brands of danish oil finishes at this link - http://www.popularwoodworking.com/features/finish2.html
Website
Rocklers sells a non-toxic clear finish specifically for toys. I used some once on a toy truck I built and was happy with the results.
http://www.rockler.com/ecom7/product_details.cfm?offerings_id=5372
Hey John,
I agree with using shellac. It builds fast, looks great and is non toxic. I've used it on rocking horses.
Tom
Do a google search on shellac and you will be amazed how much shellac you eat. Used in foods, pills, etc.
Woodcraft sells a saladbowl finish that is used, I understand, for exactly the sort of applications you are describing. Something kids will probably chew on.
Alan - planesaw
I think that Walnut oil would be a good finish for the toy.. See the current version of FWW - it's non toxic and does not darken like other oils. They recommend going to the local gourmet store to get it. Requires a little more time to dry.
Good luck.
Tim
Soon-to-be furniture maker
Port Townsend, WA
Behlen's has made a fortune selling the salad bowl finish for this purpose; but the truth is, any danish oil (e.g. Watco) will do -- if you let it cure for 30 days before you let the kid chew on it. If you want a brush on finish, Shellac would be great -- but it will get all scratched up."I would never die for my beliefs because I might be wrong."
-- Bertrand Russell
It's going to be used in a sand box. It is likely to encounter some water at some time. shellac will not be durable enough.
Same statement about sand. Any oil will just get gunky.
I suggest reading the thread about the clear outdoor finish using exterior oil base paint base. It is the base to which tint is added to make an exterior paint. It is clear and durable. Get the base for the darkest paint--#4.Gretchen
Thank you all for your help! What a great forum!
John
Hi John; I am part of the San Diego Fine Woodworker's club and we make about 3,500 toys a year for charity. We sand the toys, give them a coat of shellack, de-waxed type, resand and maybe another coat of shellac. Then we give the toys a coat of water based poly. The shellac will raise the grain a little, but a quick sand with 220 will knock down the fuz. Have fun, Roger Solheid
Roger,
3500 toys a year? That's fantastic! There must be a lot of happy kids enjoying your work. I guess with that kind of experience I should listen! I'll give that a try.
John
Roger,
I would love to see photos of some of the toys you folks do. A group I am with does something like that. But not that many, and not as well finished.
Alan - planesaw
Hi Alan; I tried to attach a photo of some toys that we make for donation but I was unable to get the system to attach the picture. Send me your e-mail address and I will send the pictures. Roger [email protected]
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