Replies

1. 
   SteveSchoene | Mar 03, 2008 11:00pm | #1

   Anything but leaving it unfinished creates a lot of needless work.  Left to itself, the teak will weather to a nice grey color.  If you start putting sealers and the like on it it will weather to a patchy grey unless you make a religion of recoating the teak quite often.  An occasional scrubbing with soap and water is plenty. 

   It would pay to saturate the ground contact areas--let bottoms with epoxy just to keep the moisture out, but otherwise nothing.

1. 
   Glaucon | Mar 04, 2008 12:59am | #2

   I agree with Steve. Teak will weather grey, attempts to the contrary are at best a waste of time.Glaucon

   If you don't think too good, then don't think too much...

1. 
   troys | Mar 04, 2008 01:14am | #3

   Tell that to my wife we just spent a week sanding and then staining Cabots Australian timber oil all of our out door teak. I thought just washing it and scrubbing it down was good enough but not according to my DW. Everything looks great but you know I will have to do it again:) oh wellTroy

2. 
   genecoder | Mar 04, 2008 01:50am | #4

   Thank you for the information but my boss doesn't like the grey color so I sand blasted it and it took al the grey out but he wants to keep it that way so I was wondreing is there any finish i could put on that would kkep it from the gey color. It doesn't how much work it takes.

1. 
   Glaucon | Mar 04, 2008 02:01am | #5

   There is a "Teak oil finish" at Woodcraft- prob just a Danish oil type product. You can sand to 220, apply 2-3 coats, wiping in between, and prevent anyone from sitting on the teak for ~ 1 week while the finish dries. You'll need to do this ~twice a year, preferably while it is warm, so the finish can polymerize. Tell your boss he can save a bundle and get the look he wants by buying the sienna colored plastic furniture next time.Glaucon

   If you don't think too good, then don't think too much...

1. 
   genecoder | Mar 04, 2008 03:40am | #6

   Thank you very muck for the information!!!!!!!

2. 
   JamesS | Mar 04, 2008 04:14am | #7

   gene......... Are you anywhere near a marine store? Some, especially older, larger, boats, yachts, etc. have a lot of teak on them. Most of what I see in Holland are kept oiled. A nice brown color.

   James

1. 
   genecoder | Mar 04, 2008 04:47am | #8

   Thanks for the Information i will have to see if i have one.

2. 
   screename56 | Mar 04, 2008 06:10am | #9

   In the past I have talked with some people that finish teak flooring.  Due to the natural oil in teak, they will wipe the entire floor down with mineral spirits immediately prior to applying the first coat of finish to remove the oil on the surface,  The fist coat may still take 2-3 days to dry thoroughly, but the next 2 coats dry in a normal amount of time.  The same method may help with your teak furniture.

   Good luck with your project.

   
   

   ---

   Edited 3/3/2008 10:14 pm ET by screename56

1. 
   PeteToo | Mar 04, 2008 06:49am | #10

   This advice from one who has been in sailing and boats for more than fifty years:

   All the above, about oil finishes on teak, is correct.  Teak will also take a good varnish finish (preferably a good marine varnish and therefore expensive) if first cleaned with *acetone* to remove surface and near-surface oils in the wood.  A minimum of three coats is necessary, as many as seven are often applied.  Maintenance, if done correctly, will involve surface sanding (180 grit and/or finer) and re-coating as soon as any parts show blistering or peeling - which can be as soon as three months depending on how far South you are and how much sun the objects get.

   If you have sand-blasted the wood to remove its oxidized surface (the gray or silver that has been mentioned) then you will need to do a good bit of sanding to regain a smooth surface.  *That* should be followed by acetone and varnish.

   Newly varnished teak is a beautiful sight ... but it doesn't last very long unless you stay right on top of it.

   Good luck with the boss.  This may be a test of some sort.

   Pete

1. 
   genecoder | Mar 04, 2008 06:11pm | #11

   Thanks for the information i appreciate it greatly.

1. 
   integrity_woodworks | Mar 06, 2008 09:35am | #22

   use the marine varnish ,it's only hard if your lazy & it sounds liike your not . I used to do about 100 sets a year for a guy who owns this huge outdoor furniture store & he would replace the stuff people oiled only once ,or let it turn grey (which is letting it rot/ teak like cedar is rot resistent NOT proof ) . Anyway varnish or Deftthane exterior urethane are your best choices. good luck.

   the Woodbug Dan

1. 
   genecoder | Mar 06, 2008 04:58pm | #24

   Thank you very much!

    

3. 
   Quickstep | Mar 04, 2008 10:31pm | #12

   If you really want the furniture to stay looking nice, make covers for them.

1. 
   genecoder | Mar 04, 2008 11:39pm | #13

   What kind of covers

    

1. 
   SteveSchoene | Mar 04, 2008 11:57pm | #14

   Sunbrella. 

1. 
   PeteToo | Mar 05, 2008 01:19am | #15

   I second the covers and the material!

    

   Pete

2. 
   Quickstep | Mar 05, 2008 05:19am | #16

   Yup, what those guys said. Sunbrella is a material that's like canvas, but made of polyester. It holds up well outside and is widely used for sail covers on sail boats. It can be sewn relatively easily with a decent sewing machine. This place has a big variety of thread, snaps and accessories. I've seen the material on eBay for cheap if you're flexible on the color.

   http://www.sailrite.com

4. 
   Steinmetz | Mar 05, 2008 09:00pm | #17

   Sunbrella is great to shade lawn chairs and the like...HOWEVER! It's a pain to sew. Except for the factory applied selvage, any raw edges will immediatly unravel. The Solution is to quickly add bias seam binding on all outer edges before joining mating sections together. It is breathable fabric,so, any moisture captured inside,will evaporate. (Not like plastic,which holds moisture and contributes to mold.
   As to the teak,
   I would suggest you try spraying lemon oil on a section underneath to see how it weathers.Steinmetz.

   I had a bunch of teak rungs from seagoing deck chairs and all I did was lightly sand them, apply and rub in lemon oil.

1. 
   Quickstep | Mar 05, 2008 10:38pm | #18

   I've made a bunch of stuff with Sunbrella and found it realtively easy to sew using a regular machine.  I cut it using a blade in a soldering pencil to seal the edges. This prevents the unraveling.

1. 
   Steinmetz | Mar 06, 2008 03:54am | #19

   Quick, YOU THE MAN.. It never occurred to me to heat seal the stuff. My daughter in law asked me to re-cover her lawn swing canopy with the stuff.
   .
   The original fringed top was destroyed by a sudden wind storm What A mess? I had to piece together the shards of the old top to make a pattern.
   Apparently, the wind rented the fabric, but turned it inside out a few times, but the fringe remained intact. It was like Chinese puzzle to un wind the inter twined strips .
   Although the binding was a different color, She loved the job (Should hold up to a hurricane now. Steinmetz. THANX for the tipEdited 3/5/2008 7:56 pm ET by Steinmetz

   Edited 3/5/2008 8:02 pm ET by Steinmetz

1. 
   Quickstep | Mar 06, 2008 06:03am | #20

   Here's one more tip for sewing Sunbrella, but I can't take credit for it. I think the guy at the Sailrite store suggested it. Instead of using a sharp needle in the sewing machine, use a "ball point" needle. It has a rounded point rather than a sharp point. This needle pushes between the fabric yarns rather than "cutting through" the yarns. It seemed counterintuitive to me, but it does seem to work.

1. 
   Steinmetz | Mar 06, 2008 08:11am | #21

   Quick, I have all types of needles I believe ball tip needles are used for delicate stuff like silk.. I've been sewing since my teens Now I'm in my 70's When my son was in the boy scouts,He volunteered me to sew about 25 duffel bags for the whole troop .I could have killed him. But soon the scoutmaster dropped off a bunch of green canvas. I couldn't refuse ((%^&$# kid!) Nowadays, I have to sew letters , emblems,patches and stuff for my grandsons Hockey and football uniforms. The older grandson is in the Civil Air Patrol (And you guessed it,)More patches, emblems, name tags, and lieutenant bars. The football jerseys and pants have to be patched occasionally I tell him he should take up a civilized sport like golf. Last year I made two dome shaped awnings for a 'bar and grille. Steinmetz.

2. 
   TonyCz | Mar 06, 2008 09:51am | #23

   As said about teak care here is mostly correct. But one thing that has not been talked about is the use of Oxalic Acid which is very commonly used to clean the teak and get the gray as well. Sand blasting is out of the question.  Oxalic acid is also avalible at most marine hardware stores, Redondo Marine Hardware has been selling this for over 70 years.  Mix the Oxcalic acid with water and use a stiff scrub brush to clean the surface. If you use the product use care to protect your eyes and wear rubber gloves. when finished rince with water and let air dry. 

   I know all a lot about teak on boats I grew up around boats and learned how to work wiith teak at a early age and finish it. It's up keep and is just that, up keep. 

   I personally like to use teak oil myself.   I have over 35 years in the wood working industry and have used this product many time myself to clean weathered teak. You will need to sand the surface after the wood dry's, Then blow compressed air on the surface to clean the dust off or use a tack cloth.  After its been cleaned and dusted off you can then apply the first of severl coats of teak oil, allowing each coat to dry before you re-coat. A light sanding may be needed between coats and wiped free of dust.

   Good luck and have fun.   

    Redondo Marine hardware is my family's business  

   http://redondomarine.com/main.html

    

   Edited 3/6/2008 2:05 am ET by TonyCz

   Edited 3/6/2008 2:08 am ET by TonyCz

3. 
   genecoder | Mar 06, 2008 05:00pm | #25

   Thank you much TonyCz!

    

5. 
   Don01 | Mar 06, 2008 05:24pm | #26

   Teak does not have to stay grey, but you have to commit to maintaining it probably annually. The "not grey" look is wonderful and well worth the effort. I saw a sailboat in Monaco last year that was built in 1930. The teak looked like it had been varnished yesterday.
   I am helping a friend restore the neglected teak on her sail boat and it does make a difference!

   I did some research on sealer and finishing in the boating world.

   Thoroughly clean the surface of all dust and residue. There has been discussion on the pros & cons of wiping or sanding before gluing. For the finish, you want it clean and smooth. Don't wipe it today and finish tomorrow, you want to have tight sequencing on this step.
   Primer/Sealer - Flashbond 300 or Flashbond 400. These are primer /sealer adhesion enhancers used in autobody refinishing (300) and architecture(400) to help the paint adhere to smooth surfaces.

   Sikkens make a line of marine varnishes that are well accepted by boaters. get the light - it only refers to tint. The regular is ok to.

   Don't oil. It will not harden, get grungy looking, attract dirt and bugs and will not perform for very long.

   Make the commitment and the beauty of your pieces will endure.

   Don

1. 
   genecoder | Mar 06, 2008 06:21pm | #27

   Thank you very much Don01