Hello to all –
I am planning to build a mission style cabinet using quarter-sawn white oak. My question is what type of finish was typically used with this style of furniture? If you were to finish a cabinet built in this style, what would you recommend. Because the cabinet will be used for storing wine bottles, I don’t think I will need the protection of a polyurethane. Any suggestions you can offer as to surface prep, choices (and color) of stain, and finish is appreciated.
Thanks in advance.
Jack T.
Replies
You're liable to get as many recipes as response on this one. For my own pieces I fume QSWO with amonia. This is a highly varibale proposition but I actually like the variationsIt's more akin to Raku (sp?) pottery or the 'color case finish' on a Ruger Vaquero, no two are alike. G. Stickley fumed and evened things out with stain for the production market. Sap wood in QSWO will not fume or stain evenly, so if this bothers you cut it out or plan on toning and/or glazing. . After fuming I'll put on a coat of thinned boiled linseed oil to really pop the fleck. I ususally follow that with a coat of 2# orange shellac to warm the greenish tone from the amonia. The I top coat with what ever makes sense for the intended use of the piece. For production work I prefer Enduro waterbase stain and Enduropoly waterborn poly. I've tried Woodkote gel stains and although they go on evenly, they are a bear to touch up. The Enduro stains touch-up and blend well and can be mixed with the poly for toning.
John O'Connell - JKO Handcrafted Woodworking
Life is tough. It's tougher if you're stupid - John Wayne
The traditional finish started with fuming the white oak. It was placed in an enclosed space and ammonia was placed in there as well. More time spent equaled a darker result, and I'd assume that there needed to be adequate air space around all surfaces as well.
I did a quarter sawn white oak mantel (pictures in the Gallery) and did not fume the oak. It's extremely hazardous if not done properly. What I did was to use Moser's aniline dye to get the color I wanted. I used "dark fumed oak" (I think that's the color), and got the variant that mixes with oil (he also has dye for water and another for alcohol). I put the dye in linseed oil and applied one coat. After I saw the color I realized I didn't need more dye, so went directly to a wipy on poly final covering. It works great.
You'll get as many different finishes as replies to your post. When in doubt, take some scrap and work it all the way to completed finish. When you get something you like, apply it to the actual piece.
John
You might want to take a look at the following thread:
http://forums.taunton.com/tp-knots/messages/?msg=9772.1
forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)
The pro's around here will probably cringe, but I've been happy with the results I've gotten with just Watco Dark Walnut Danish Oil Finish. It's easy to apply, has a nice color, doesn't leave a plastic finish, etc.
Nice choice on the Watco but I tend to mix their colors a bit. A touch of Cherry and a touch of some yellow (I've got a sample packet that has lasted forever) tend to humanize the color of the stain. Even try putting down the dark or black walnut, then highlighting with the colors. If it looks other than you like you can lighten it up with the natural. The natural will lift 60% of the color from the predried stain."83% of all statistics are made up seconds before stated.FONT>
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