Replies

1. 
   hammer1 | Oct 11, 2009 07:01am | #1

   Have you tried a natural stain?

   Beat it to fit / Paint it to match
2. 
   dmdnk | Oct 11, 2009 08:40pm | #2

   The curly maple in the photos was finished with water base dye stains, a sealer coat, a gel stain glaze coat, then lacquer.  The dye stain was sprayed then wiped.

   For more pop, you can spray and wipe the first coat of stain, then wash the piece down with water (if you use water dyes) or lightly sand the surface, followed by another coat of stain.  Washing it down or sanding removes stain from the flat areas but leaves it in the curl.

   For a natural finish you can dilute the stain as much as you need to.  Try the "Medium Amber Maple"  or "Golden Amber Maple"

   The dye stain is Moser's available from Woodworker's Supply.

   David

   
   

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   Edited 10/11/2009 1:50 pm ET by dmdnk

   
1. 
   stevecater | Oct 13, 2009 04:29pm | #4

   David, Thanks for the photos.
   I'm looking for something more along the shade of your bookcase. What stain color did you use there?Why the gel glaze instead of a dye toner in your lacquer? Seems to me a pigment stain over such a wood might detract from the transparency?Steve

1. 
   dmdnk | Oct 14, 2009 06:49am | #6

   Steve,

   I believe the stain used on the bookcase was the previuosly mentioned "Medium Amber Maple"

   The gel stain glaze coat was just used to accent the detail areas (notice the dark grooves in the back of the bookcase, dark corners, etc.).  Nearly all of the gel stain is removed from the surface, so doesn't really affect the clarity.

3. 
   YesMaam27577 | Oct 12, 2009 09:15pm | #3

   Curly maple is one of the woods that doesn't (in my opinion) benefit much from an oil coat in the finishing schedule.

   I recently did a mantle clock from curly maple, and used the analine dyes (water or alcohol based) as described in teh article you mentioned. Like you, I was worried -- I've not been convinced that all of the "newfangled" stuff is any good.

   Wow, was I impressed. (Pics are in the gallery if you're interested)

   I used a heavily diluted dye, followed by fine-grit sanding (220, 320, 400). Then I applied deft brushing lacquer -- 5 or 6 coats. When the lacquer was cured, I used waterproof sandpaper starting at 400, and going all the way to 2000 grit. (Note -- it does not take much sanding at each grit, but each is important.)

   I then used automotive-style rubbing compound for the final process.

   And it looked like I had finally mastered the french polishing technique. As smooth as glass, as thin-looking as a single coat of varnish.

   I won't be laughing at the lies when I'm gone,
   And I can't question how or when or why when I'm gone;
   I can't live proud enough to die when I'm gone,
   So I guess I'll have to do it while I'm here. (Phil Ochs)

1. 
   stevecater | Oct 13, 2009 04:36pm | #5

   I'll have to do a test with some BLO and just straight lacquer over the dye and see if there is any difference or at least enough difference to merit the extra work. I'm thinking not ;)I'll not be wet sanding, these will be spray only with post cat lacquers as hand wet sanding an entire kitchen isn't my idea of 'fun' in any way shape or form...lol. The finish won't be gloss either but rather 35% satin (this is a kitchen after all). I'm sure the satin will knock down some of the 'pop' of the figure as well so I may want to go a little darker on the dye to bring it out more. test pieces are definitely in order here.Anyone have any feedback on use of satin lacquer over figure, is it detrimental?Tks
   Steve