Replies

1. 
   Rob_Millard | Nov 26, 2001 03:03pm | #1

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   You can make excellent filler from fine sanding dust and hide glue. The hide glue will absorb most stains and dyes. Try it on some scrap first to see how it takes the finish. If you are using water based aniline dye, you can dye the sanding dust, and then mix in the glue for an even better match. I use the hot hide glue, but the liquid version will work also, it just needs more drying time (probably a couple of days). Burn in sticks are also a great way to fix problem areas. I usually do this after the first coat of finish goes on. The burn in sticks work best with a film forming finish, like varnish or shellac.

1. 
   David_Paterson_(aust) | Nov 28, 2001 03:06am | #2

   *I have recently taken to using a natural oil finish available in Australia that has a 'hard burnishing' variant. The instructions, and their demos, take the sanding process to about 400 grit. At that stage they leave all the sanding dust on and start oiling. First coat dries for 24 hours and then you sand again with wet/dry using the oil and (now soggy) dust as a slurry, This fills quite large grain pores and where I made some small errors in joinery around some wedged through tenons securing draw fronts. You then burnish with fine papers until you get the finish you want. I was working on some Mountain ash (actually a eucalypt) with pretty open grain and like the result. It will take shellac over it.